Here is my answer to another member who also asked the same question before.
Fist option is to draft the pattern and add the seam allowances as it is instructed in the lesson and sew the pants using muslin to test the fit. You may like this fit the way it is without changing it.
However if you like your pants a bit larger, make it larger on the muslin along the side seams and try on. Once you find the fit that you like you can add the wearing ease to your own pattern, then add the seam allowances.
Below you can find another way of adding wearing ease:
I suggest that once you finish the pattern, before adding the seam allowances you can add about 2 cm in total at the waistlines where it meets the side seams. This means 5 mm on the actual patterns from the side seams.
And about 4 cm in total at the crotch level lines where they meet the side seams. This means 1 cm away from the existing seam lines since you are working with just half of the front and back patterns.
Connect the new point and then draw a line parallel with the old side seam to the hemline, or merge the line with the old side seam at the hemline.
The reason we need to do this is to make sure that the shoulder slopes line up in the middle of the front and back bodice block patterns. Otherwise when we sew the garment the shoulder lines may move too far forwards or backwards. When we draw the shoulder slopes, the front shoulder slope will be at a narrower angle. This makes the front shoulder slope width a bit shorter than the back. By doing this the front and back shoulder slope widths will be the same, therefore the armholes will be aligned as well.
I have a problem on making trh bodice pattern. well i was really reallly disserponted. i had mesured my body sevreal times and take acurate measurements. but whrn i dreaft the front pattern i saw that my arm hole is small? the curve// so what should i do? where have i gone wrong??
my mesurements are bust circum - 92cm
waist 79.5
armpit 39.5
pls i need ue help
There are many reasons why a particular machine might not sew properly. I suggest that you watch the sewing machine essentials video lesson, especially the Janome section. Since there are a lot of similarities between different machines you will be able to thread and set up your machine correctly, by watching this lesson.
If your machine has a different set up, for example the bobbin case is built in, on top of the machine table by the needle plate. Then you can watch the Singer sewing machine in the same sewing machine essentials video lesson. By watching the whole lesson you will be more familiarized with sewing machines.
If someone has a more protruding buttocks compared to their belly, the back of the skirt will rise up and will cause the hem to rise on the back as well. To fix this, we need to let out from the top of the skirt on the back along the waistline seam. If this is not enough we need to shorten the front of the skirt along the waistline to level the hemline. Make sure to merge the new waistline gradually to the old one at the side seams.
I suggest that you use the full figure skirt block pattern making lesson which addresses these issues. Make sure to test the fit using muslin.
I enjoyed the pictures so much. You are really a WOW MOM. My favorite was the applique you added; it transformed the whole outfit to a cute and stylish outfit.
Thanks for the compliment. You can add ease once you have finished drafting your pattern. You can do this by narrowing the darts a bit, letting out from the side seams, center back and center front as well. Add the seam allowances after you add the ease. Test the fit by sewing with muslin. If you need to make any changes, transfer them to your pattern as well. The amount of ease depends on your own preference.
Your calculation for the dart intakes is correct it is 1.9 cm after rounding up. To make it clear why we need to divide the difference by 9, and where the darts are located, I suggest that you watch the Why do We Need Darts Video from the Skirt Pattern Drafting Lesson. This explanation also works for pant darts as well.
After watching the why do we need darts chapter:
Notice that on the back pattern we draw half a dart on the center back, but since we place the pattern on two layers of fabric we end up with a full dart, but this dart is transferred into the center back seam of the pants. That is why we say we have 3 darts on back. However on the back pattern we have 1 and a half, since we are drawing half of the back.
In this same chapter, notice that the intake of the side darts are twice as wide as the other darts. This is because the body is curvier in this area along the sides. However when we have side seams, these darts are transferred to the side seams. If you plan to sew a skirt or a pants without side seams, you will need to sew these darts along the sides.
There are different reasons why we may end up with excess fabric along the waistline. Since we draw a curved line for the waistline of the skirt and pants when we finish drawing the pattern, this increases the waistline measurement a bit. Sometimes when we press the darts we may stretch the top of the pants or skirt, this will cause the waistline to become larger than the waistband. We may have also sewn the darts a bit narrower than we intended. The same could happen to the side seams.
All theses things together may cause the waistline to be larger than our waistband. To fix this you can take in a bit from your darts and or side seams. You can also sew a stitch line just above where you want the waist seam line to be and gather the fabric before joining it to the waistband. To do this we set the machine to long stitches and lower the tension and sew just above the waistline seam. Then gather the fabric by pulling on the bobbin thread ends a bit. Distribute the gather evenly and measure the new waistline circumference. Make adjustments if needed.
If you have a straight hemline, the excess fabric at the top edge of the hem allowance along the front and back crease lines can be folded in like a pleat when you sew the hem.
If you have a rounded hemline, you need distribute the excess fabric evenly around the top edge of the hem allowance.
Make sure to baste the hems by hand do a fitting before you finish the hem.
For someone with a full figure, who might have a protruding belly, sides and or buttocks, we measure our desired skirt length along the center front from the waistline, then we measure the distance from the waistline to the floor along the center front, side and center back. Next we subtract the desired skirt length from the center front to the floor measurement. Whatever this number, we subtract it from the waistline to floor for the side and the center back measurements. This way we have the skirt length along these three areas. Later we will use these new measurements to adjust the front and back patterns along the waistline.
Doing this will ensure that the hemline of the skirt will be parallel to the floor all the way around and allow the skirt to fall nicely on the body.
Please when do you intend bringing up the shirt sewing video. Also, will it be the type to include placquet and rocket? I'm looking forward to it. Thanks.
For the double fold curved hem you did on the lining, wouldn’t there be excess fabric just like in the single fold curved hem you did on the shell where you had to apply gathering?
Also, can these methods be applied on deeper curves?
Thanks for your kind words and encouragement. We do plan to make a video on coat sewing in the future. I will also add your other suggestions to my list for future lessons as well.
I would love a video on how to add a kick pleat to a skirt pattern
Thanks, Enasokab, for your compliments. I am truly flattered by your kind words.
-Di
Dear bamby,
I would like to welcome you to our site, I hope you will find our lessons helpful and learn what your are interested in.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear bamby,
Here is my answer to another member who also asked the same question before.
Fist option is to draft the pattern and add the seam allowances as it is instructed in the lesson and sew the pants using muslin to test the fit. You may like this fit the way it is without changing it.
However if you like your pants a bit larger, make it larger on the muslin along the side seams and try on. Once you find the fit that you like you can add the wearing ease to your own pattern, then add the seam allowances.
Below you can find another way of adding wearing ease:
I suggest that once you finish the pattern, before adding the seam allowances you can add about 2 cm in total at the waistlines where it meets the side seams. This means 5 mm on the actual patterns from the side seams.
And about 4 cm in total at the crotch level lines where they meet the side seams. This means 1 cm away from the existing seam lines since you are working with just half of the front and back patterns.
Connect the new point and then draw a line parallel with the old side seam to the hemline, or merge the line with the old side seam at the hemline.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Azeez,
The reason we need to do this is to make sure that the shoulder slopes line up in the middle of the front and back bodice block patterns. Otherwise when we sew the garment the shoulder lines may move too far forwards or backwards. When we draw the shoulder slopes, the front shoulder slope will be at a narrower angle. This makes the front shoulder slope width a bit shorter than the back. By doing this the front and back shoulder slope widths will be the same, therefore the armholes will be aligned as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nehazt
I have a problem on making trh bodice pattern. well i was really reallly disserponted. i had mesured my body sevreal times and take acurate measurements. but whrn i dreaft the front pattern i saw that my arm hole is small? the curve// so what should i do? where have i gone wrong??
my mesurements are bust circum - 92cm
waist 79.5
armpit 39.5
pls i need ue help
Thank you let me watch the videos and hopefully l will be helped
Dear Perpetualand,
There are many reasons why a particular machine might not sew properly. I suggest that you watch the sewing machine essentials video lesson, especially the Janome section. Since there are a lot of similarities between different machines you will be able to thread and set up your machine correctly, by watching this lesson.
If your machine has a different set up, for example the bobbin case is built in, on top of the machine table by the needle plate. Then you can watch the Singer sewing machine in the same sewing machine essentials video lesson. By watching the whole lesson you will be more familiarized with sewing machines.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear DonnaE,
If someone has a more protruding buttocks compared to their belly, the back of the skirt will rise up and will cause the hem to rise on the back as well. To fix this, we need to let out from the top of the skirt on the back along the waistline seam. If this is not enough we need to shorten the front of the skirt along the waistline to level the hemline. Make sure to merge the new waistline gradually to the old one at the side seams.
I suggest that you use the full figure skirt block pattern making lesson which addresses these issues. Make sure to test the fit using muslin.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I enjoyed the pictures so much. You are really a WOW MOM. My favorite was the applique you added; it transformed the whole outfit to a cute and stylish outfit.
I would like instructions for making a bell cuff on a lace bolero.
Thank you.I finish my pant.I will sew other one, but first i will work on
making a skirt block and bodice.
Thank you.
Dear chakitakay,
Thanks for the compliment. You can add ease once you have finished drafting your pattern. You can do this by narrowing the darts a bit, letting out from the side seams, center back and center front as well. Add the seam allowances after you add the ease. Test the fit by sewing with muslin. If you need to make any changes, transfer them to your pattern as well. The amount of ease depends on your own preference.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear enasokab,
Since we are forming a curved narrow double folded hem on the lining there will not be too much excess fabric when forming the hem.
You can also double fold along a deeper fold, if the double fold is very narrow.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear rrunnerss1,
Your calculation for the dart intakes is correct it is 1.9 cm after rounding up. To make it clear why we need to divide the difference by 9, and where the darts are located, I suggest that you watch the Why do We Need Darts Video from the Skirt Pattern Drafting Lesson. This explanation also works for pant darts as well.
After watching the why do we need darts chapter:
Notice that on the back pattern we draw half a dart on the center back, but since we place the pattern on two layers of fabric we end up with a full dart, but this dart is transferred into the center back seam of the pants. That is why we say we have 3 darts on back. However on the back pattern we have 1 and a half, since we are drawing half of the back.
In this same chapter, notice that the intake of the side darts are twice as wide as the other darts. This is because the body is curvier in this area along the sides. However when we have side seams, these darts are transferred to the side seams. If you plan to sew a skirt or a pants without side seams, you will need to sew these darts along the sides.
There are different reasons why we may end up with excess fabric along the waistline. Since we draw a curved line for the waistline of the skirt and pants when we finish drawing the pattern, this increases the waistline measurement a bit. Sometimes when we press the darts we may stretch the top of the pants or skirt, this will cause the waistline to become larger than the waistband. We may have also sewn the darts a bit narrower than we intended. The same could happen to the side seams.
All theses things together may cause the waistline to be larger than our waistband. To fix this you can take in a bit from your darts and or side seams. You can also sew a stitch line just above where you want the waist seam line to be and gather the fabric before joining it to the waistband. To do this we set the machine to long stitches and lower the tension and sew just above the waistline seam. Then gather the fabric by pulling on the bobbin thread ends a bit. Distribute the gather evenly and measure the new waistline circumference. Make adjustments if needed.
Hope this explains it to you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear rrunnerss1,
If you have a straight hemline, the excess fabric at the top edge of the hem allowance along the front and back crease lines can be folded in like a pleat when you sew the hem.
If you have a rounded hemline, you need distribute the excess fabric evenly around the top edge of the hem allowance.
Make sure to baste the hems by hand do a fitting before you finish the hem.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Innayah,
In the Skirt Block Pattern Making (Straight & Tapered) Online Video Lesson we use a size 12 dress form, and only measure the center front length. But in the Full Figure Skirt Block Pattern Making (Drafting) Online Video Lesson we are using a full figure dress form and need to take 3 extra measurements for the skirt length so we can draft the pattern for the full figure.
For someone with a full figure, who might have a protruding belly, sides and or buttocks, we measure our desired skirt length along the center front from the waistline, then we measure the distance from the waistline to the floor along the center front, side and center back. Next we subtract the desired skirt length from the center front to the floor measurement. Whatever this number, we subtract it from the waistline to floor for the side and the center back measurements. This way we have the skirt length along these three areas. Later we will use these new measurements to adjust the front and back patterns along the waistline.
Doing this will ensure that the hemline of the skirt will be parallel to the floor all the way around and allow the skirt to fall nicely on the body.
I suggest that you also watch the Skirt Block Pattern Making (Straight & Tapered) Online Video Lesson to help clarify why we need to do things a bit differently for a full figure skirt pattern.
Please let me know if this clarifies it for you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Please when do you intend bringing up the shirt sewing video. Also, will it be the type to include placquet and rocket? I'm looking forward to it. Thanks.
Dear Nehzat,
For the double fold curved hem you did on the lining, wouldn’t there be excess fabric just like in the single fold curved hem you did on the shell where you had to apply gathering?
Also, can these methods be applied on deeper curves?
Thanks,
Enas
Dear Cinthia,
Thanks for your kind words and encouragement. We do plan to make a video on coat sewing in the future. I will also add your other suggestions to my list for future lessons as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear rrunnerss1,
This should not cause any issues. If you see that the pants are longer than you want, you can decide to shorten it after the first fitting.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I vote for lessons on drafting a godet pattern as well!!!