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Waistband & Darts
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Sun, 12/02/2012 - 17:39
My question is about please explain where i could be wrong. My waistband on the muslim fit for the pant and fabric never line up with my waist the way yours do.it alway too long . I am thinking i could be calculating my darts wrong. My waist is 89 lower hip is 106 and upper is 98. after calculating acording to your instruction using the lower since it is the largest i total each dart to be 1.9. can you calculate it and let me see if i am right? Then can you explain maybe by diagrams, what u meant by 2 in the front 3 in the back and 2 on the side cause the end result of my dart is 2 in the back and 2 in the front. i think my error is in the calculation . also after follow your instruction carefully when making the waistband pattern. but after placing the mark where i sew with the thread the inbetween of the waist band does not line flat because of the extra. I hope you able to explain where i could be doing it wrong . By the way i am so happy with my pant i am learning so much and getting the confidence on sewing. Can you believe this is my first pant? Oh i also want to
tell u i struggle with the sewing of the crotch but i finally got it even thought after turning the pant over i sew the inseam close even though i put the pins, don't get it, but that's all in learning.lol.
Thu, 12/06/2012 - 19:57
#2
Thank you.
Thank you.
Sat, 11/01/2014 - 06:21
#3
back dart in pant pattern drafting
Good job you are doing. Please, how do you get the 20cm you divided by 2 when marking out the back dart in pant pattern drafting lesson?
Mon, 11/03/2014 - 20:11
#4
Re: Back Darts Distance
Dear akinola68,
The distance between the front and back darts is the same. We get this distance by measuring the distance between the bust points. This will vary depending on the person you are drafting the pattern for.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Wed, 12/05/2012 - 16:29
#5
Re: Waistband and Darts
Dear rrunnerss1,
Your calculation for the dart intakes is correct it is 1.9 cm after rounding up. To make it clear why we need to divide the difference by 9, and where the darts are located, I suggest that you watch the Why do We Need Darts Video from the Skirt Pattern Drafting Lesson. This explanation also works for pant darts as well.
After watching the why do we need darts chapter:
Notice that on the back pattern we draw half a dart on the center back, but since we place the pattern on two layers of fabric we end up with a full dart, but this dart is transferred into the center back seam of the pants. That is why we say we have 3 darts on back. However on the back pattern we have 1 and a half, since we are drawing half of the back.
In this same chapter, notice that the intake of the side darts are twice as wide as the other darts. This is because the body is curvier in this area along the sides. However when we have side seams, these darts are transferred to the side seams. If you plan to sew a skirt or a pants without side seams, you will need to sew these darts along the sides.
There are different reasons why we may end up with excess fabric along the waistline. Since we draw a curved line for the waistline of the skirt and pants when we finish drawing the pattern, this increases the waistline measurement a bit. Sometimes when we press the darts we may stretch the top of the pants or skirt, this will cause the waistline to become larger than the waistband. We may have also sewn the darts a bit narrower than we intended. The same could happen to the side seams.
All theses things together may cause the waistline to be larger than our waistband. To fix this you can take in a bit from your darts and or side seams. You can also sew a stitch line just above where you want the waist seam line to be and gather the fabric before joining it to the waistband. To do this we set the machine to long stitches and lower the tension and sew just above the waistline seam. Then gather the fabric by pulling on the bobbin thread ends a bit. Distribute the gather evenly and measure the new waistline circumference. Make adjustments if needed.
Hope this explains it to you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
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