Thank you so much Nehzat for giving us printable forms. I am excited about getting them it will be a great help in drafting. I love to watch you work, you work slowly and with great precisioin. You are a good example for me because I always feel I have a need to rush. You are so peaceful in your approach to sewing. You are helping to see that there is no need to rush but I do need to enjoy sewing more - like you. Thank you for your consistant example of making every line drawn or every stitch sewn to be the best one. Sincerely, Sandra Taylor
Please watch Pants Block Pattern Styling Video chapters 5, 6, 7 and 8. These video chapters explain how to style the pattern, regarding the size of the leg part of the pattern. On chapter 6 we explain how to make it more tapered.
If you want to make it less tapered, just do the opposite of what is explained in chapter 6. So if you want to make the pants leg opening a little bit larger than the amount you get in your pants block pattern, please follow the below example:
Suppose that you want to make the hem line 3 cm larger, half of it you add to the back pattern and the other half to the front pattern. Therefore 3 cm has to be divided by 2, giving us 1.5 cm for the front and 1.5 cm for the back.
Now 1/3 of the 1.5 cm which is 0.5 cm we add to the in-seam on the hem line for the front and back pattern then 2/3 of the 1.5 cm which is 1 cm we add to the side seam on the hem line on the front and back patterns.
Then you draw the new side seam and in-seam lines from these points on the front and back patterns, the same way that we do in chapter 6.
Note, that we want to make the hem line larger in this case - the opposite of what is explained in chapter 6.
Since the French curve doesn't always work well with the curve that should pass from different points, I prefer to do it free hand. With practice anyone can draw curved lines. If the curved line doesn't come out the way you want it, you can always erase it and make it better.
I will also make a video on how to draw cureved lines using a French curve tool in the near future.
The line from O to Q is a straight line that has a 90 degree angle with the waist line and upper hip line. We draw this center line for the dart first and then from the top of it on the waistline we measure half of the dart intake on either side from O and then we draw the legs of the dart from these two points to Q.
We have online videos on making straight skirt and bodice block patterns and you can style the patterns with the Panel Dress for the square neckline and armhole with the video title links below. Note, you just need to sew the dress with darts and without panel styling and flaring the skirt.
Here is an example for a shoulder seam, explaining why we fold the seam allowance under. This usually has to be done for seams that are sewn first.
After we draft our patterns and we add seam allowances around it, for example at corners to join the seam allowance lines, we fold the shoulder seam line and place the shoulder seam allowance under. Then we put carbon paper right side up under the ends of the shoulder seam to copy the top of the arm whole seam allowance line and top of the neck line seam allowance line for the corners of shoulder seam allowance.
When we cut our garment without using patterns, we take the above notes into consideration. So we need to fold the shoulder seam line and place the seam allowance under to cut the neckline and armhole.
This way, the two ends of the shoulder seam allowance will be flush with the arm whole and neck line seam allowance lines after sewing the shoulder seam line.
Glad to hear you are enjoying the website. With regards to your questions about altering clothes that you have sewn to make them fit better after loosing wight, usually when a garment is loose it's easy to make it fit. It is harder to make clothes larger after gaining weight, since the seams may not have enough allowance.
Continue the center line of each dart to the hem line.
Now we need to slash these lines from the hemline to the tip of each dart.
Then close the darts. This way your pattern will fan out and you need to tape paper underneath of these sections that fan out.
The wider and shorter the darts, the more they will flare out.
Make sure to style your skirt block pattern to an A Line Skirt before doing the above. You can find how to style a straight skirt block pattern for an A Line Skirt by searching our website and reading forum topics where I have replied.
Thank you so much for the kind words. You can use a triple threaded needle in embroidery. Using more strands will make the embroidery stitches stand out.
You can also use two or more strands to sew on a button faster (using less stitches). However if your fabric is light weight it is better to use a double threaded needle to reduce the bulk, especially when securing the thread.
We do not have a lesson on this topic yet. However you may be able to find the information you are looking for in my previous answers to other members. Here is a Link where you can read my responses. Please scroll down to view the different postings.
Thanks for the suggestion. We will be making a video lesson covering this topic very soon. In the mean time you can watch the Sweater Remodeling and Jacket Shoulder Shortening video lessons. In these lessons I teach how to sew the sleeve to the armhole.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your kind words.
Since you have already taken your measurements in different areas, your block pattern will reflect your true measurement.
So what you need to do next is do a test using muslin. Make sure to have wide enough seam allowances to allow you to let out easily if needed. For your particular body shape, it is best to have cut lines, such a center back seam, back yoke or princess seams from the armhole or shoulders. This way you can transfer the intake of the darts to these cut lines. Then you can make the necessary adjustments from these cut lines.
Thanks you for the feedback. I suggest that after drafting the block pattern, you sew a garment using muslin fabric. Do a fitting to check it. Then let out the seams or darts anywhere you want to enlarge the garment at. Do more fittings until you are satisfied.
Once you are happy with the fit of the adjusted muslin, transfer these differences to your pattern and use this to cut your main fabric. Make sure to add the differences to the seam lines not the seam allowances.
Once you have the newly drawn seam lines, add the seam allowances from them. Use different colours for the new seam lines and seam allowances to make them stand out from the old ones.
Thank you so much Nehzat for giving us printable forms. I am excited about getting them it will be a great help in drafting. I love to watch you work, you work slowly and with great precisioin. You are a good example for me because I always feel I have a need to rush. You are so peaceful in your approach to sewing. You are helping to see that there is no need to rush but I do need to enjoy sewing more - like you. Thank you for your consistant example of making every line drawn or every stitch sewn to be the best one. Sincerely, Sandra Taylor
Hi Chris,
Please watch Pants Block Pattern Styling Video chapters 5, 6, 7 and 8. These video chapters explain how to style the pattern, regarding the size of the leg part of the pattern. On chapter 6 we explain how to make it more tapered.
If you want to make it less tapered, just do the opposite of what is explained in chapter 6. So if you want to make the pants leg opening a little bit larger than the amount you get in your pants block pattern, please follow the below example:
Regards,
Nehzat
Hi
Since the French curve doesn't always work well with the curve that should pass from different points, I prefer to do it free hand. With practice anyone can draw curved lines. If the curved line doesn't come out the way you want it, you can always erase it and make it better.
I will also make a video on how to draw cureved lines using a French curve tool in the near future.
Regards
Nehzat
Hi All,
I will be adding these pattern drafting downloadable diagrams and measurement forms to the online video titles in the next month.
Regards
Nehzat
Hi
The line from O to Q is a straight line that has a 90 degree angle with the waist line and upper hip line. We draw this center line for the dart first and then from the top of it on the waistline we measure half of the dart intake on either side from O and then we draw the legs of the dart from these two points to Q.
Regards
Nehzat
Hi Roxas
We have online videos on making straight skirt and bodice block patterns and you can style the patterns with the Panel Dress for the square neckline and armhole with the video title links below. Note, you just need to sew the dress with darts and without panel styling and flaring the skirt.
Regards
Nehzat
Hi Enasokab
Here is an example for a shoulder seam, explaining why we fold the seam allowance under. This usually has to be done for seams that are sewn first.
After we draft our patterns and we add seam allowances around it, for example at corners to join the seam allowance lines, we fold the shoulder seam line and place the shoulder seam allowance under. Then we put carbon paper right side up under the ends of the shoulder seam to copy the top of the arm whole seam allowance line and top of the neck line seam allowance line for the corners of shoulder seam allowance.
When we cut our garment without using patterns, we take the above notes into consideration. So we need to fold the shoulder seam line and place the seam allowance under to cut the neckline and armhole.
This way, the two ends of the shoulder seam allowance will be flush with the arm whole and neck line seam allowance lines after sewing the shoulder seam line.
Regards
Nehzat
Hi
Glad to hear you are enjoying the website. With regards to your questions about altering clothes that you have sewn to make them fit better after loosing wight, usually when a garment is loose it's easy to make it fit. It is harder to make clothes larger after gaining weight, since the seams may not have enough allowance.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Barb
To flare out a skirt block pattern from darts:
Regards
Nehzat
I made diagrams and notes for the front and back block videos. I will be glad to share as long as its ok with Nehzat.
Janet
Yes a printable diagram would be extremely helpful. It's hard to go back and forth with the video.
Dear Reginabelle,
To make the a tulip skirt pattern, make a copy of your front pattern using the straight or tapered skirt pattern.
Then match the center front lines and tape them together.
Now draw a curved line, according to the shape of the curve you like for the tulip skirt.
You need to cut two pieces for the front of the skirt, from your fabric.
I hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Kate,
Thank you so much for the kind words. You can use a triple threaded needle in embroidery. Using more strands will make the embroidery stitches stand out.
You can also use two or more strands to sew on a button faster (using less stitches). However if your fabric is light weight it is better to use a double threaded needle to reduce the bulk, especially when securing the thread.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Vi,
Here is a link to a site that provides standard measurements for US/Canada.
http://www.tarseam.com/size_chart.php This site has sizes for babies, children, women and men.
Also on the back of pattern packages there is usually a chart for different sizes that you can refer to.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear mpab,
Thanks for your interest, we are planning to do a video lesson on this topic in the future.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi, pls. am equally INTERESTED on the sleeve parttern too, how can it be released???
Christie.
Thank you so much Nehzat!
Greatly appreciated i love this websight!
Demetra :)
Awesome! Thanks for the tips - can't wait to put them into practice!
Off to happy sewing,
Natalie
Dear Shekinah,
We do not have a lesson on this topic yet. However you may be able to find the information you are looking for in my previous answers to other members. Here is a Link where you can read my responses. Please scroll down to view the different postings.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear earth,
Thanks for the suggestion. We will be making a video lesson covering this topic very soon. In the mean time you can watch the Sweater Remodeling and Jacket Shoulder Shortening video lessons. In these lessons I teach how to sew the sleeve to the armhole.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear KT1408,
Thank you so much for the compliments. The fabric I used in the lesson is 100% linen, it is a grayish beige color.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear anacuevas
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your kind words.
Since you have already taken your measurements in different areas, your block pattern will reflect your true measurement.
So what you need to do next is do a test using muslin. Make sure to have wide enough seam allowances to allow you to let out easily if needed. For your particular body shape, it is best to have cut lines, such a center back seam, back yoke or princess seams from the armhole or shoulders. This way you can transfer the intake of the darts to these cut lines. Then you can make the necessary adjustments from these cut lines.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Demetra,
Thanks you for the feedback. I suggest that after drafting the block pattern, you sew a garment using muslin fabric. Do a fitting to check it. Then let out the seams or darts anywhere you want to enlarge the garment at. Do more fittings until you are satisfied.
Once you are happy with the fit of the adjusted muslin, transfer these differences to your pattern and use this to cut your main fabric. Make sure to add the differences to the seam lines not the seam allowances.
Once you have the newly drawn seam lines, add the seam allowances from them. Use different colours for the new seam lines and seam allowances to make them stand out from the old ones.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Josephine,
Welcome to our site and thanks for your support. With more practice I am sure that you will become an expert in sewing sooner.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Earth,
Thanks so much for the kind words, I am happy to see that the videos have helped you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat