I'm also glad I found it. I'm a real newbie, I'm just doing my first piece, its a sampler that says SWEET DREAMS. I'm just learning the different stitches, Right now the only stitch I know is the satin stitch. I've joined the Embroidery Guild of America, EGA, but these woman are way beyond me, but they are real patient and they give me good advice. But I think this will be real good.
It is better to add the ease to the seam line first before adding the seam allowance. You are right, you should add a quarter of the ease to the front pattern and a quarter to the back pattern. This is because we lay the front and back patterns on two layers of fabric.
So in your case, since you want to ease by 2 cm, you will add 1/2 cm to the upper and lower hiplines. You would do the same for the waistline if you want to. Then redraw the side seam lines and then the seam allowances.
I am really happy to see that you were able to sew the darts the way you always wanted and how the skirt fitted your dress form well. Let me know how the skirt you are sewing for yourself turns out. I'm happy to help you further any time.
Yes that helps clarify wearing and design ease, thank-you.
I am still unsure of when to add the ease that is desired to my pattern that I made from my block. If I wanted to add 2cm of ease to the upper and lower hip would I divide 2cm by 4 and add 1/2cm to the hiplines and redraw the side? or just add to the seam allowance? (yikes, I'm sooo confused, sorry)
I wanted to tell you that I have struggled so much with making darts look perfect that it became an obsession. I tried every idea out there that I could find and still the darts that I made looked bad to me. So then I watched your video, very closely, on how you sewed (and ironed) your darts and wow! my darts on the skirt I made look so beautiful I could cry! It's what "they" say a dart should look like (almost invisible and dimple free). I cant stop looking at the perfect darts that I can now make and no longer fear! and while I am gushing I might as well tell you that the skirt block you taught to draft fit my dressform so well it was shocking! I didn't do the lined with the slit version yet. I did a simlpe straight skirt first. When I feel more experienced at drafting I will definitively go back and make the lined version with the slit.
Thanks for your help with my passion of dressmaking and design.
Wearing ease, is the amount of easing added to a pattern to allow for comfortable movement based on a persons particular needs or preference. This is what you add yourself to an existing pattern.
Design ease, is incorporated in ready made patterns, to give a specific look to a garment. When you draft your own block pattern you can add design ease for the style that you create.
The block pattern that we made is close fitted and therefore does not have any wearing ease. You can add your own wearing ease to it.
This can be about 1 to 2 cm for the waistline and from 2 to 5 cm for the upper and lower hiplines.
You can sew a quick skirt using muslin fabric to test your wearing ease.
Hi, I looked at the smock that you want to make, It is very nice and I could use one just like it. I am not very experienced at sewing yet, but it looks like to me that the lining of the smock will finish all the edges. If you omit the lining you will need to finish the edges somehow and binding is one way. Also I think that the smock will be much lighter and not have as much stucture than if it was lined. Hope this helps.
i, too, have been bitten by the sewing bug..my daughter gave my granddaughter a sewing machine for christmas, and low and behold the task of teaching her to sew fell to me...suddenly, those years of home economics came pouring back..it occurred to me that sewing skills are not being taught in schools...anyway, i'm now making cloths for the grandkids and i went out and bought a new machine....hope i can operate it
You can now upload your project pictures to the discussion forum to share with everyone.
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Like yourself, I like doing things for the house and that in fact, is what renewed my interest in sewing. I have a Morse 200 that has been a real mending workhorse for me in the past. Kind of an "all-purpose" type of machine. I recently acquired an older Kenmore 1802 that is full of features that I am only now becoming familiar with. It's like learning to walk again, if you know what I mean.
At the moment we have 22 video titles on the site. As of January 2010 we have over 400 online video tutorial chapters. Since many of the chapters can be used as stand alone mini lessons we refer to them as tutorials. You can get full access to all the online video tutorial chapters by subscribing.
Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Hi Max, welcome to our community. I have used the site to make a few things around the house. The cushion cover and pants hemming lessons where especially helpful for me.
dear nehzat, thanks for explaing this to me. now i see why i was confused, i went back through my steps and noticed that when i connected the waistline to the lower hip i never measured out the upper hip. i over looked that, now it's so obvious. thanks again, veronica
The reason why we need to adjust the upper hip measurement on our block pattern, is that we do not measure and mark it on the upper hipline before drawing the side seam.
We need to measure and mark it after connecting the marks on the waistline and lower hipline.
There is noting wrong with adding 10 mm, as long as you follow the instructions and draft the pattern according to your specific measurements.
Thanks, Nehzat for the help, I appreciate it.
veronica
I'm also glad I found it. I'm a real newbie, I'm just doing my first piece, its a sampler that says SWEET DREAMS. I'm just learning the different stitches, Right now the only stitch I know is the satin stitch. I've joined the Embroidery Guild of America, EGA, but these woman are way beyond me, but they are real patient and they give me good advice. But I think this will be real good.
Sherry
Hi Veronica,
It is better to add the ease to the seam line first before adding the seam allowance. You are right, you should add a quarter of the ease to the front pattern and a quarter to the back pattern. This is because we lay the front and back patterns on two layers of fabric.
So in your case, since you want to ease by 2 cm, you will add 1/2 cm to the upper and lower hiplines. You would do the same for the waistline if you want to. Then redraw the side seam lines and then the seam allowances.
I am really happy to see that you were able to sew the darts the way you always wanted and how the skirt fitted your dress form well. Let me know how the skirt you are sewing for yourself turns out. I'm happy to help you further any time.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
Yes that helps clarify wearing and design ease, thank-you.
I am still unsure of when to add the ease that is desired to my pattern that I made from my block. If I wanted to add 2cm of ease to the upper and lower hip would I divide 2cm by 4 and add 1/2cm to the hiplines and redraw the side? or just add to the seam allowance? (yikes, I'm sooo confused, sorry)
I wanted to tell you that I have struggled so much with making darts look perfect that it became an obsession. I tried every idea out there that I could find and still the darts that I made looked bad to me. So then I watched your video, very closely, on how you sewed (and ironed) your darts and wow! my darts on the skirt I made look so beautiful I could cry! It's what "they" say a dart should look like (almost invisible and dimple free). I cant stop looking at the perfect darts that I can now make and no longer fear! and while I am gushing I might as well tell you that the skirt block you taught to draft fit my dressform so well it was shocking! I didn't do the lined with the slit version yet. I did a simlpe straight skirt first. When I feel more experienced at drafting I will definitively go back and make the lined version with the slit.
Thanks for your help with my passion of dressmaking and design.
veronica
Hi Veronica,
Wearing ease, is the amount of easing added to a pattern to allow for comfortable movement based on a persons particular needs or preference. This is what you add yourself to an existing pattern.
Design ease, is incorporated in ready made patterns, to give a specific look to a garment. When you draft your own block pattern you can add design ease for the style that you create.
The block pattern that we made is close fitted and therefore does not have any wearing ease. You can add your own wearing ease to it.
This can be about 1 to 2 cm for the waistline and from 2 to 5 cm for the upper and lower hiplines.
You can sew a quick skirt using muslin fabric to test your wearing ease.
Hope this helps,
Thanks,
Nehzat
Hi, I looked at the smock that you want to make, It is very nice and I could use one just like it. I am not very experienced at sewing yet, but it looks like to me that the lining of the smock will finish all the edges. If you omit the lining you will need to finish the edges somehow and binding is one way. Also I think that the smock will be much lighter and not have as much stucture than if it was lined. Hope this helps.
i, too, have been bitten by the sewing bug..my daughter gave my granddaughter a sewing machine for christmas, and low and behold the task of teaching her to sew fell to me...suddenly, those years of home economics came pouring back..it occurred to me that sewing skills are not being taught in schools...anyway, i'm now making cloths for the grandkids and i went out and bought a new machine....hope i can operate it
Hi Kayongo,
We are happy that you have found the site helpful. Wish you the best with your sewing school.
Let us know how thing work out.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Hi Denise,
Happy to hear you had a good holiday, I had a very good one too.
Glad to see that you like the lessons. We will work to release a pants block pattern as well.
Best regards,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
I had a good holiday, hope your holiday was good too,
Thank you for all the sewing lessons, the zips was quite a challenge
Hope to see the block pattern of the pants shortley
Have a Good Day
Hi everyone,
You can now upload your project pictures to the discussion forum to share with everyone.
You can always delete your images or change them from your comment area and keep track of them by visiting the MY SETTINGS page clicking on File Browser. Here you can Upload, Delete and Resize your images.
Thanks,
eSewingWorkshop Administrator
Dear Denise,
Welcome to the site, thanks for your many kind compliments. I will add your suggestions for upcoming videos.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Like yourself, I like doing things for the house and that in fact, is what renewed my interest in sewing. I have a Morse 200 that has been a real mending workhorse for me in the past. Kind of an "all-purpose" type of machine. I recently acquired an older Kenmore 1802 that is full of features that I am only now becoming familiar with. It's like learning to walk again, if you know what I mean.
Thanks for your reply!
Best from Max
Dear Elfy,
Yes you can bone the bust seams.
The best thing is to pin the cups in place when doing the fitting. This way they are positioned in the right place.
Then tack the top and bottom of the cups to the bust seam allowances.
You can tack the sides of the cups in place by attaching them to the interfacing, or any seam allowances close to the sides of the cups.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Hi Simona,
Grazie mille (Thanks) for subscribing.
At the moment we have 22 video titles on the site. As of January 2010 we have over 400 online video tutorial chapters. Since many of the chapters can be used as stand alone mini lessons we refer to them as tutorials. You can get full access to all the online video tutorial chapters by subscribing.
Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Administrator
Hi Max, welcome to our community. I have used the site to make a few things around the house. The cushion cover and pants hemming lessons where especially helpful for me.
Do you need to add Seam allowance on the drafted block pattern?
Hi Adnerb58,
Bellow you can find the most common way of sewing a v-neck for a nurse's uniform:
Hi Sue,
Here is an example of a dog outfit enlargement technique, I hope you find it helpful.
Dear Veronica,
Your are welcome, any time.
dear nehzat, thanks for explaing this to me. now i see why i was confused, i went back through my steps and noticed that when i connected the waistline to the lower hip i never measured out the upper hip. i over looked that, now it's so obvious. thanks again, veronica
I did subscribe and it first said failed and then approved. I retried and it said it was already approved and not to do it again.
Hi Sewon,
To figure out how much smaller the lining should be, use some muslin to make a pattern for the lining fabric.
First cut out the muslin in the same dimentions as the shell (handbag).
Then baste the seams by machine and place the muslin with the seams facing in, inside the handbag.
Pinch the excess fabric in different places at the seam lines and pin, now measure the pinched fabric.
Now you can see exactly how much excess fabric there is, and cut the lining accordingly.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear Veronica,
The reason why we need to adjust the upper hip measurement on our block pattern, is that we do not measure and mark it on the upper hipline before drawing the side seam.
We need to measure and mark it after connecting the marks on the waistline and lower hipline.
There is noting wrong with adding 10 mm, as long as you follow the instructions and draft the pattern according to your specific measurements.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Nettec,
We have one buttonhole sewing video lesson right now, here is the link to that video: http://esewingworkshop.com/video-lesson/45-sewing-buttonhole
You need to be a subscriber to view the video.
Thanks,
Nehzat