The best thing is to go to a store where they sell these kinds of bras with your aunt. Try on the bras and see which ones fit the best and are more comfortable. Look inside to see how the pocket for the prosthesis is sewn.
Then you can purchase a regular bra similar to the mastectomy one and sew in a pocket the same way.
No problem, you can draw the top line 12 cm above the bust point and bring it down gradually to the bottom of the armhole.
If you look at the dress in the very beginning of the first chapter, you will see that the top of the dress at the front slopes downwards gradually to the bottom of the armhole. This is more visible in the center image.
its a nice website which can informally provide learning for those interested in sewing. i am an advanced sewer and design most of my dresses myself. i am situated in united kingdom where there is a big market of fashion wear. i am interested in designing for home and i'm also looking forward to gain qualification. i have no idea if there are patterns available for home decor at this site. hope that you will help me in exploring more in this area.
You need to fold along E - H of the front pattern and place it on the back pattern, lining it up along the back pattern shoulder line (E - H).
You don't have to even remove the tapes, just move the excess paper from under the back pattern to under the front patter. This way you can mark the new shoulder slope and draw it on the front pattern, then transfer the mark to the back pattern with a pin. Then draw the shoulder slope on the back pattern, by connecting the pin hole to E.
Now you can align the armhole lines by drawing a line from the pin hole to the back armpit line.
Its best to use different colors to distinguish between the new and old lines.
Thank you so much for the prompt response. im really impressed. i actually tried doing that and thank God i did just what you suggested. im really impressed with what i've learnt so far.
The other thing i wanted to ask is that my mark fell on the front pattern when joining X to T in chapter 19 (centering shoulder slopes and aligning armholes) of the bodice pattern video but i don't really understand what to do about it as im a visual learner.
You can extend the line from S to W a bit more so that you can measure the side seam from S and mark it on the line.
You can also measure the side seam again on the body, to make sure that you have the correct measurement.
Make sure to measure from the bottom edge of the paper strip when measuring the side seam. When you place the paper strip under the arm, it should be in a comfortable position without going to high up into your flesh.
Welcome to the site, I hope that you can find the information you need here, to help you along with your passion. I started sewing at a young age myself, sewing for my dolls and latter I became the dress maker for all the dolls of my younger sisters and some cousins. I also made bedding for the dolls.
I can't remember a single day when I was younger that I wasn't making something for those lucky dolls. We gathered our pocket money and went to the store to buy enough fabric so I could sew what I had in mind. I was not satisfied sewing with the scraps of fabric from my mom's sewing, there never was enough as she saved the bigger pieces, just in case she needed it.
In this situation you need to take a look and see exactly how the pocket is sewn in place, so that you can replicate it when you take in the excess fabric at the side seams.
It is best to work on one side first, this way you have the other side as reference.
Sometimes jersey fabric have tighter stitches and do not have as much give, when the needle goes trough them, therefore the fabric rips when sewn by machine.
Try using a thinner needle or finer thread. You can also try lowering the thread tension to see if it makes a difference.
If you want to sew the zipper at the center back, the line is from M to F, but you need to add a seam allowance of about 2.5 cm. Around the neckline you can add about 1.3 cm, for the shoulder about 2 cm, for the armhole about 2 cm and for the side seam about 2.5 cm.
If you have a seam at the waist line you should add about 2.5 cm here as well.
To place the zipper on the side you need to transfer half of the center back dart's intake to the existing waist dart and the other half needs to be deducted from the side seam.
If the waist dart becomes wider than 3 cm, you can draw another dart about 5 to 6 cm away from it, on the right side of the dart. To draw the second dart, you draw it's center line parallel to the existing waist dart. Then you reduce the new intake of the waist dart by about 1/3 and make it into the intake of the second dart.
The second dart is also shorter, you can finish it at the upper hip line.
When we mark the waist measurement on the back pattern we should measure from E as you did.
If you watch the chapter: Why do we Need Darts, you will see that not all the excess fabric around the waist line can be taken in at the front and back waist darts. We also need to place the excess fabric in the side and center back. We also don't want a dart that is to wide because the end will not lay flat against the body. Therefore if we don't want to have a center back seam, the excess fabric should be taken in by new and / or existing darts and seams.
When sewing a skirt with a center back seam, we can use the top of the seam for the zipper opening. The zipper is sewn to the legs of the dart.
I agree sewing is also a passion of mine, it is a pity that the art of sewing is not thought in schools as much any more.
I had the opportunity to learn sewing and handcraft from my mother my aunts both from my father's and my mother's side. They in turn learned from their mothers and so on.
All this experience has passed on from generation to generation and I was lucky to be able to watch and learn their tips and tricks. Now I feel great pleasure from passing on my knowledge and experience to the members of the site.
Thank you for your reply. I am learning so much from your site. This site has encouraged me to have a new appreciation of the construction of garments. I no longer take for granted a well fit blouse, skirt or pants ever again. My grandmother's 1st love was sewing and I never really understood her passion until now. I'm hoping that the skills I learn can pass down to my children, because I'm noticing that the art of sewing is subdued in my generation. Well no more!!!
Thanks for your help Nehzat. Wish me luck!!
Dear Semande,
Great job. I am very impressed with what you have accomplished with your first try. Even the Pattern on the fabric is perfectly aligned.
Looking forward to see more of your work
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Veronica,
Thanks for sharing your work. I relay enjoy seeing the work of our members.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Carol,
The best thing is to go to a store where they sell these kinds of bras with your aunt. Try on the bras and see which ones fit the best and are more comfortable. Look inside to see how the pocket for the prosthesis is sewn.
Then you can purchase a regular bra similar to the mastectomy one and sew in a pocket the same way.
Hope this helps.
Nehzat
Dear Tose,
For beginners I recommend that you start with the Sewing Essentials http://esewingworkshop.com/online-sewing-video-training-classes/essentia...
You can start with the sewing machine or hand sewing essentials and continue down trough the list of lessons.
Subscribers can access all the lessons as many times as they like and visit the site for new lessons and tips.
Hope this helps you out.
Nehzat
Dear Semande,
No problem, you can draw the top line 12 cm above the bust point and bring it down gradually to the bottom of the armhole.
If you look at the dress in the very beginning of the first chapter, you will see that the top of the dress at the front slopes downwards gradually to the bottom of the armhole. This is more visible in the center image.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear Afshan,
Thanks, I appreciate your comments. Currently we do not have any patterns avaialble for sale. However we are working on making them available.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
hi nehzat
its a nice website which can informally provide learning for those interested in sewing. i am an advanced sewer and design most of my dresses myself. i am situated in united kingdom where there is a big market of fashion wear. i am interested in designing for home and i'm also looking forward to gain qualification. i have no idea if there are patterns available for home decor at this site. hope that you will help me in exploring more in this area.
thanx
afshan
Dear Veronica,
Thanks for sharing your beautiful work.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Ping,
We are going to put up a poll where you can vote for drapes for the next months lesson.
Regards,
Nehzat
Hi. I am so interested to know more on draperies too.
Hi Semande,
No problem.
You need to fold along E - H of the front pattern and place it on the back pattern, lining it up along the back pattern shoulder line (E - H).
You don't have to even remove the tapes, just move the excess paper from under the back pattern to under the front patter. This way you can mark the new shoulder slope and draw it on the front pattern, then transfer the mark to the back pattern with a pin. Then draw the shoulder slope on the back pattern, by connecting the pin hole to E.
Now you can align the armhole lines by drawing a line from the pin hole to the back armpit line.
Its best to use different colors to distinguish between the new and old lines.
Hope this helps.
Nehzat
i've tried this but the armhole is stll not aligning.
Do i fold E to I on the front shoulder or do i fold the new shoulder slope line?
Is it possible for you to give me instructions using the letters instead i.e. X to J and so on.
l would have preffered calling you but im in the UK.
Sorry for the trouble.
Hi Semande,
If your mark falls on the front pattern, you need to open the back shoulder fold and fold the front shoulder instead.
Then follow the rest of the instructions as shown.
Let me know if you have any problems doing this.
Happy sewing
Nehzat
Thank you so much for the prompt response. im really impressed. i actually tried doing that and thank God i did just what you suggested. im really impressed with what i've learnt so far.
The other thing i wanted to ask is that my mark fell on the front pattern when joining X to T in chapter 19 (centering shoulder slopes and aligning armholes) of the bodice pattern video but i don't really understand what to do about it as im a visual learner.
Hi Semande,
You can extend the line from S to W a bit more so that you can measure the side seam from S and mark it on the line.
You can also measure the side seam again on the body, to make sure that you have the correct measurement.
Make sure to measure from the bottom edge of the paper strip when measuring the side seam. When you place the paper strip under the arm, it should be in a comfortable position without going to high up into your flesh.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Hi Pat,
Welcome to the site, I hope that you can find the information you need here, to help you along with your passion. I started sewing at a young age myself, sewing for my dolls and latter I became the dress maker for all the dolls of my younger sisters and some cousins. I also made bedding for the dolls.
I can't remember a single day when I was younger that I wasn't making something for those lucky dolls. We gathered our pocket money and went to the store to buy enough fabric so I could sew what I had in mind. I was not satisfied sewing with the scraps of fabric from my mom's sewing, there never was enough as she saved the bigger pieces, just in case she needed it.
Wish the best and happy sewing,
Nehzat
HI Carol,
In this situation you need to take a look and see exactly how the pocket is sewn in place, so that you can replicate it when you take in the excess fabric at the side seams.
It is best to work on one side first, this way you have the other side as reference.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Abigail
Sometimes jersey fabric have tighter stitches and do not have as much give, when the needle goes trough them, therefore the fabric rips when sewn by machine.
Try using a thinner needle or finer thread. You can also try lowering the thread tension to see if it makes a difference.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Thank-you Nehzat,
That helped alot. I totally understand now.
Veronica
Hi Phusch,
If you want to sew the zipper at the center back, the line is from M to F, but you need to add a seam allowance of about 2.5 cm. Around the neckline you can add about 1.3 cm, for the shoulder about 2 cm, for the armhole about 2 cm and for the side seam about 2.5 cm.
If you have a seam at the waist line you should add about 2.5 cm here as well.
You can watch this chapter in the Dress with Pleated Skirt Video Lesson: http://esewingworkshop.com/video-lesson/9-adding-seam-allowances-patterns to get a good idea on how to add seam allowances.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Hi Veronica,
To place the zipper on the side you need to transfer half of the center back dart's intake to the existing waist dart and the other half needs to be deducted from the side seam.
If the waist dart becomes wider than 3 cm, you can draw another dart about 5 to 6 cm away from it, on the right side of the dart. To draw the second dart, you draw it's center line parallel to the existing waist dart. Then you reduce the new intake of the waist dart by about 1/3 and make it into the intake of the second dart.
The second dart is also shorter, you can finish it at the upper hip line.
When we mark the waist measurement on the back pattern we should measure from E as you did.
If you watch the chapter: Why do we Need Darts, you will see that not all the excess fabric around the waist line can be taken in at the front and back waist darts. We also need to place the excess fabric in the side and center back. We also don't want a dart that is to wide because the end will not lay flat against the body. Therefore if we don't want to have a center back seam, the excess fabric should be taken in by new and / or existing darts and seams.
When sewing a skirt with a center back seam, we can use the top of the seam for the zipper opening. The zipper is sewn to the legs of the dart.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Hi Jacquie,
I agree sewing is also a passion of mine, it is a pity that the art of sewing is not thought in schools as much any more.
I had the opportunity to learn sewing and handcraft from my mother my aunts both from my father's and my mother's side. They in turn learned from their mothers and so on.
All this experience has passed on from generation to generation and I was lucky to be able to watch and learn their tips and tricks. Now I feel great pleasure from passing on my knowledge and experience to the members of the site.
Thanks again,
Nehzat
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for sharing your story. I hope that our site is going to be of help to you.
Soon we will work on releasing a new lesson on how to draft a sleeve block pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
Thank you for your reply. I am learning so much from your site. This site has encouraged me to have a new appreciation of the construction of garments. I no longer take for granted a well fit blouse, skirt or pants ever again. My grandmother's 1st love was sewing and I never really understood her passion until now. I'm hoping that the skills I learn can pass down to my children, because I'm noticing that the art of sewing is subdued in my generation. Well no more!!!
Jacquie