Bellow you can find the most common ways to transfer a bust dart intake.
If you close the side dart (Bust Dart), which is from the side seam to the bust point, you can transfer it's intake to the shoulder dart that goes from the shoulder to the bust point.
You can also do this from the armhole to the bust point (here you draw a curve line from the armhole to the bust point, and then close the bust dart, you need to leave a seam allowance and trim the excess)
Another way to transfer this intake is to draw a line on the pattern from the lower or upper hip or somewhere in between to the bust point. Then you draw the waist dart here on this diagonal line. After closing the bust dart, the waist dart and the bust dart will become one.
You can also draw one or multiple lines from the neckline to the bust point, cut these lines, place a sheet of paper underneath, space them out equally, tape them in place, then close the bust dart. In this case you can sew different darts around the neckline or gather around the neckline.
There are many other ways to transfer a bust dart depending on the style of the garment. You can watch one example here: Styling the Front Dress Pattern
I hope this helps. I found adding ribbing that is used around cuffs or collars on polar fleece is great. It comes in different colours and sizes. I have used it on skirts, pants, and dresses. It has a soft stretch and due to it being double, it is easy to add to the item for sewing and the finished product looks good too. Hope this helps.
The best way to handle this situation is to have very narrow darts in the front, then add the excess intake to the side seams and some to the back darts as well.
By distributing the excess intakes over to the sides and the back of the skirt, we can smooth out the fabric in the front. This is especially so if you have protruding buttocks more than a standard figure. Also make sure that you have 4 waist darts at the back and add the excess intakes to them but not to the center back dart.
Yes you can let the seams out. If that is not enough find some matching fabric, tape or ribbon and add it to the seam lines.
Cut the fabric pieces in long triangular shapes and sew them in at the side seams. The wide area will go at the top and the pointed part, down towards the waistline.
Bellow I have provided an example of the single fold binding with a (mitered) square corner.
You can find explanations below each picture.
1. To sew a square corner using a biased binding tape, first sew to the edge of the fabric like this. Then reverse stitch the last two stitches to secure the thread.
2. Now cut off the Threads.
3. Fold the binding tape at the corner so that the folded edge lies at an angle and meets the inside edge of the sewn section
4. Repeat for the other side, underneath.
5. Make sure the edge of the fabric falls in the center fold of the binding tape.
6. Pin the rest of the binding in place. If you like you can hand baste it to keep it in place better before sewing by machine.
Hand basting will make it easier to sew the binding by machine, and prevents puckering.
7. Start with a reverse stitch to secure the binding at the corner.
8. To hide the end of the threads, you can pass them trough a needle and sew two small backstitches by hand then cut the threads.
Part B of the dress sewing video bellow, which we will release this month, will cover how to cut biased strips for the piping and spaghetti straps as well.
The biased strips can be used to sew binding, cording, spaghetti straps, piping and button fabric loops.
Hi Nehzat how are you I don't know how to thanks you about your effort thanks a lot , from long time I was looking to learn how to draw my own pattern ,and joining your website it give push to success in my lovely hobby
Thanks a lot and I will continue learning from your website
Yes grading and layering are the same. If the interfacing is fusible it is easier to trim it before fusing. However if it is not fusible, it is better to trim it after sewing it in place.
ARE GRADING AND LAYERING THE SEAMS ONE AND THE SAME? ALSO, IS IT AN ADVANTAGE TO CUT THE INTERFACING 5/8 FROM THE FACING BEFORE SEWING, OR IS IT MORE ADVANTAGES TO GRADE CLOSE TO STITCHING AFTER SEWING THE INTERFACING ONTO THE FACING?
To get the exact crotch length for pants which have a waistband that sits exactly on the waistline, we tie a ribbon around the waistline, like shown in the: (Skirt Pattern Making videos). Now you need to measure from the center back to the center front, from the bottom edge of the ribbon on the back to the bottom edge in the front.
If you need to add to a crotch length for an existing pattern which is not a low-rise, you can add to the length by cutting a straight line on the front and back patterns about 15 cm bellow the waistlines. Then tape a sheet in between to add half the desired amount to the front and back patterns. You will need to redraw the crotch lines and side seams again. This will add to the pants length. You may need to shorten the length of the pants from the hemline.
If the pants are low-rise, there will be less crotch length. In this case, you need to add to the crotch length, you can do so by adding the desired length to the top of the pattern on the front and back pieces. Then you continue the darts, side seams and crotch seam lines to the top.
Yes, squaring the fabric is very important, because otherwise the garment or anything else we sew, like curtains, will not fall nicely.
Make sure to pull the thread a bit at a time. Then hold the thread and the fabric together and spread out the gathered fabric slowly. This way the thread will not rip as easily, since there is less pressure on it.
If the thread you are pulling breaks, you can find the end of the ripped thread and continue pulling it again.
You can also cut along line up to the break point and then find the ripped end easily. If your thread rips again, repeat this step to the end.
Another way to achieve a squared fabric is to clip a notch and rip the fabric by pulling on both sides of the notch. You may have seen this technique at the fabric store. Keep in mind that you can only apply this method of squaring on certain types of fabric, for example: lining and most cotton fabric.
When we rip fabric to square it, we stretch the squared edge. That is why I recommend that you use the first method, even if it takes a bit longer. If you choose to rip the fabric to square it, make sure to press the ripped edge afterwards, to make the edge flat.
This is my first time visiting the forum. I've been sewing for a long time but I have found that there is always something new to learn or new and better ways to do techniques. Also, I am anxious to learn how to draft my own patterns. The videos are very well done!
i enjoyed the lesson but not to my satisfaction because i could not get the steps in drawing the bodice block parttern to enable me try my hands on. i really need these to practice on ma own in the house. tthank you and keep on with the good work done.
Hi ettaglam,
Bellow you can find the most common ways to transfer a bust dart intake.
There are many other ways to transfer a bust dart depending on the style of the garment. You can watch one example here: Styling the Front Dress Pattern
Hope this helps
Nehzat H.
I hope this helps. I found adding ribbing that is used around cuffs or collars on polar fleece is great. It comes in different colours and sizes. I have used it on skirts, pants, and dresses. It has a soft stretch and due to it being double, it is easy to add to the item for sewing and the finished product looks good too. Hope this helps.
Sewmena
Thanks for explaining how the library works. I'm glad to hear that you like the site.
I love this site too.
The workshop library makes all the lessons available to its subscribers.
To see the list for all the lessons click on the "online video lessons" at the top. New lessons are added every month.
Hope this helps.
Dear May.
The best way to handle this situation is to have very narrow darts in the front, then add the excess intake to the side seams and some to the back darts as well.
By distributing the excess intakes over to the sides and the back of the skirt, we can smooth out the fabric in the front. This is especially so if you have protruding buttocks more than a standard figure. Also make sure that you have 4 waist darts at the back and add the excess intakes to them but not to the center back dart.
Hope this helps.
Hi dubronsnik,
Yes you can let the seams out. If that is not enough find some matching fabric, tape or ribbon and add it to the seam lines.
Cut the fabric pieces in long triangular shapes and sew them in at the side seams. The wide area will go at the top and the pointed part, down towards the waistline.
I hope this helps.
Nehzat H.
Dear Mary,
Bellow I have provided an example of the single fold binding with a (mitered) square corner.
You can find explanations below each picture.
1. To sew a square corner using a biased binding tape, first sew to the edge of the fabric like this. Then reverse stitch the last two stitches to secure the thread.
2. Now cut off the Threads.
3. Fold the binding tape at the corner so that the folded edge lies at an angle and meets the inside edge of the sewn section
4. Repeat for the other side, underneath.
5. Make sure the edge of the fabric falls in the center fold of the binding tape.
6. Pin the rest of the binding in place. If you like you can hand baste it to keep it in place better before sewing by machine.
Hand basting will make it easier to sew the binding by machine, and prevents puckering.
7. Start with a reverse stitch to secure the binding at the corner.
8. To hide the end of the threads, you can pass them trough a needle and sew two small backstitches by hand then cut the threads.
Dear Jenf,
Yes biased tapes are easy to make.
Part B of the dress sewing video bellow, which we will release this month, will cover how to cut biased strips for the piping and spaghetti straps as well.
The biased strips can be used to sew binding, cording, spaghetti straps, piping and button fabric loops.
Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt, Spaghetti Straps, Piping and Invisible Zipper Video Lessons
Dear Roula, I am happy to have given you the push you needed to go ahead.
Thanks,
Nehzat
i think it would be really fun to show and talk about projects that we are working on
with other members and give and get some feedback
Can I make my own bias tape reasonably easily?
do you have a video on how to hem jeans that are too long or jeans that are frayed.
It sounds like you make a casing out of an old pair jeans and insert it over the frayed hem?
I love your website, considering signing up for newsletter.
You are wonderful!
sally
Hi ppeterson,
Yes grading and layering are the same. If the interfacing is fusible it is easier to trim it before fusing. However if it is not fusible, it is better to trim it after sewing it in place.
ARE GRADING AND LAYERING THE SEAMS ONE AND THE SAME? ALSO, IS IT AN ADVANTAGE TO CUT THE INTERFACING 5/8 FROM THE FACING BEFORE SEWING, OR IS IT MORE ADVANTAGES TO GRADE CLOSE TO STITCHING AFTER SEWING THE INTERFACING ONTO THE FACING?
THANKS
Dear Youdy,
If you ever have any questions while watching the video lessons, you can post your questions here in the Message Board, where it will be answered.
Dear Martinezjuan,
Thanks. We are always looking for new ways to improve the site for our members.
I wish you the very best as well.
Dear Yolanda,
I am happy that you appreciate the site so much, we will definitely be making more videos and keep the site going.
Dear tkelly,
we are planing to make a video regarding these topics.
Dear Desramos,
Thanks for your kind words, always glad to hear that our site is appreciated.
Hi lizy,
The complete lesson can be accessed by becoming an Subscriber.
If you are a Free Member you can subscribe from the My Account link on the top right side.
Hope this helps you out. Bye.
Hello,
This is my first time visiting the forum. I've been sewing for a long time but I have found that there is always something new to learn or new and better ways to do techniques. Also, I am anxious to learn how to draft my own patterns. The videos are very well done!
Dear Nehzat,
i enjoyed the lesson but not to my satisfaction because i could not get the steps in drawing the bodice block parttern to enable me try my hands on. i really need these to practice on ma own in the house. tthank you and keep on with the good work done.
bye.