Front bodice and back bodice drafting

Dear sigridjakob,

In a standard figure the front bodice length is longer than the back bodice length because of the protrusion of the breasts.

Here are a few cases where the back bodice length would be longer, shorter or the same length as the front.

The back bodice length would be longer if the shoulder blades protrude more than usual or if the person has smaller breasts. This could also occur if the person has a hunched back even if they have larger breasts.

The back bodice length may be shorter if the shoulder blades are flatter than usual even if the person has smaller breasts.

The back and the front bodice length will be the same if the shoulder blade protrusion is normal but the breasts are smaller.

In terms of the X being above W on your pattern, I believe you are referring to the back bodice pattern not the front.

First make sure that the folded paper you position under your arm is not too far up. Once you lower your arm let the paper fall in place naturally. The folded paper should not be pushing into your flesh or folding at the top edge. Remember to measure from the bottom of the folded paper not the top.

Some people who have a longer torso, therefore X may fall above W when they draw the back bodice pattern.

Please let me know if this helps,

Happy sewing,

Nehzat