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Hidden Seam Treatment

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4 replies [Last post]
Sat, 11/19/2011 - 23:00
bjack
User offline. Last seen 12 years 27 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 08/26/2011
Posts: 24

I am sewing an A-Line skirt without a waistband.  I have sewed around the waistline with the lining and shell right sides together.  I have ironed the seam towards the lining.  I will later sew a line of understitching on the lining which will also catch the seams.  This is to prevent the lining peeking out at the waistline.

Image

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My questions are:

1.  What is the appropriate finish for the raw edges (if any)?

2.  Do I need to layer them to reduce bulk?

TIA.

Barbara

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Wed, 11/23/2011 - 16:45
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Hidden Seam Treatment

Dear Barbara,

You can trim the seam allowances to one cm, you do not need to layer the seam allowances. Having the lining and shell allowances the same width will strengthen the waistline since you have no waistband there.

You can also cut the ends of the darts at an angle on both the shell and lining to reduce the bulk at the top of the darts.

If you want to dry clean your skirt, you can cut the raw edge using pinking scissors. But if you want to wash it at home you can use one row of zigzag stitches to finish the raw edge of the shell and lining together.

Another option you may want to consider when you do not want to sew a waistband is to use interfacing along the top edge. This interfacing can be about 5 cm wide and will stabilize the top edge of the skirt.

 

Happy sewing,

Nehzat 

 

 

 

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Wed, 11/23/2011 - 20:32
#2
bjack
User offline. Last seen 12 years 27 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 08/26/2011
Posts: 24
Re: Hidden Seam Treatment

Thank you Nehzat for your reply.

I hope you don't mind but I have further questions on the interfacing:

1.  Do I fuse it to the shell or lining?

2.  Do I fuse it before or after the darts are sewn?

3.  Do I start fusing right from the top edge of the skirt i.e. 1.3cms above the waistline?

TIA and if you are in the US, Happy Thanksgiving to you!

Barbara

 

 

 

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Thu, 11/24/2011 - 13:00
#3
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Fusing Interfacing to the Top of the Skirt with no Waistband

Dear Barbara

I am happy to answer your questions.

1. You need to fuse the interfacing to the shell.

2. You should fuse the interfacing before sewing the darts.

3. If you want to fuse interfacing, the seam allowance of the waistline can be about 8 mm after trimming. Therefore you can fuse the interfacing about 6 mm above the seam line. This way there will be layering which reduce the bulk in this area.

Wish you a happy Thanksgiving as well. Since we live in Canada we celebrate Thanksgiving earlier, In the month of October. 

 

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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Fri, 11/25/2011 - 10:57
#4
bjack
User offline. Last seen 12 years 27 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 08/26/2011
Posts: 24
Re: Fusing Interfacing to the Top of the Skirt with no Waistband

Thank you again Nehzat for your clear explaination. 

Barbara

 

 

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