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How do I finish the raw edges of sleeve cap for a delicate fabric?

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3 replies [Last post]
Thu, 08/04/2011 - 20:17
jnjewel
User offline. Last seen 12 years 15 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 04/23/2011
Posts: 24

Hi Nehzat and everyone,

I'm making a blouse with very thin delicate fabric.  I don't know how it's called, ciffon or georgette, I guess.

So I'm planning to use french seam.  But I'm wondering if it's possible to do french seam around the sleeve cap with gathers?

Shall I make a Hong Kong seam finish with the same fabric?  In any way, I don't want to serge around it, I want it to be covered.

What is the best way to do this?

I appreciate any input on this.

 

Jnjewel

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Sun, 08/07/2011 - 12:32
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: How to finish the raw edge around the armhole seams

 Dear jnjewel,

 

You can sew all the seams using the French seam style. But to finish the raw edge of the armhole seam allowances, I prefer doing a single fold binding. This will work very well even when we have lots of gather at the sleeve caps. I suggest you bind both of the seam allowances of the armhole and sleeve together so that you have one binding around each armhole seam allowance.

Doing this will smooth out the seam allowance at the sleeve caps where you have the gathered fabric. Make sure to press the seam allowances before doing the binding to keep the allowances flat.

You can use the same material as the blouse or a lining fabric for the bias strips. Sometimes lining fabric works better, especially if your fabric is chiffon or georgette which are hard to handle. If you prefer using the same fabric to do the binding you can use slip stitches by hand instead of sewing by machine. 

 

Click Here to find a single fold binding sample.

 

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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Sun, 08/07/2011 - 22:13
#2
jnjewel
User offline. Last seen 12 years 15 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 04/23/2011
Posts: 24
Thanks for your reply

Thanks for your reply  Nehzat,

I'll go with the single fold bias method.    I didn't think about it before, but hand sewing is the way to go maybe for this garment as you sugested. 

I realize that real couture sewing means a lot of hand work.   Before I made a lot of garments with fast and quick way with cheap fabric, but nowadays, I truly appreciate the handwork and couture sewing, AND a quality fabric. 

I feel like I'm in the next phase of sewing journey, and am enjoying it with e-sewing workshop.com.

 

Jnjewel

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Wed, 08/10/2011 - 17:17
#3
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: I'll go with single fold bias

Dear jnjewel,

I am happy to be of help and hope that you will advance in your sewing abilities. Doing work and accomplishing projects by hand is a real source of pleasure and happiness. When we create something by hand we appreciate it much more and want to keep it, even if it doesn't fit any more or gets old and out of style.

 

Most of the things I have done by hand over the years I still keep and treasure.

 

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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