why divide by 9

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Fri, 07/30/2010 - 19:49
tammu
User offline. Last seen 2 years 28 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 09/01/2009
Posts: 8

 

 Hi

In this video DART INTAKE CALCULATIONS why do we divide the WAIST MINUS UPPER HIP/ LOWER HIP measurement by ''9''. Is it because we took 

9cm from shoulder for the mannequin . Is these two related? Suppose it is a very short person do you still divide it by 9  

thanks\

tammu

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Mon, 08/02/2010 - 12:26
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Why divide by 9 for dart intake calculation

Hi Tammu,

If you look at these two chapter again : 4. Why do we Need Darts? (FREE) , 5. Calculating the Intake of the Darts in the Straight and Tapered Skirt Block Pattern video lesson. You will see that we explain that that there are two darts in the front and three in the back, one of them being at the center back. Then there are the two side seams, each containing the intake amount for two darts. So 2 intakes for the front plus 3 intakes for the back and 2 intakes for each side seams. This adds up to 9 intakes.

Imagine that you have a tube like skirt that has to fit around the widest part of your body. This can be your lower hip or upper hip. Now to fit it around your waistline, you need to take in the excess fabric using darts and the side seams. To spread the difference nicely between the darts and side seams, I have found that dividing the difference between the lower/upper hip circumference and the waist circumference by 9 works best.

The height of the person or any other body part measurement will not affect this calculation.

Hope this helps.

Nehzat

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