Thanks so much for your kind words. I am happy to have inspired you.
First, I suggest that you measure the bodice side seam again, the same as I instruct in the video lesson. If your X falls above W, it is okay. Just draw the bottom part of the armhole to wherever X is located.
The intake of your darts will be smaller for a larger person. Sewing the darts, even with a very small intake will give a finer look to the finished garment.
In many pattern drafting methods the upper hip is not measured. That is why the chart does not have this measurement. However having an upper hip circumference measurement will give a better fit to the pattern.
One way to estimate the average for the upper hip would be to measure this on different sized women you may encounter. For example, if you have a few size 10 friends, you can measure their upper hips and divide by the number of people you measured. This is the best way to get this average for different sizes.
In the skirt sewing video lesson what I show is an abutted slit on the back. To see how to add the abutted slit to your skirt block pattern you can watch chapter 14 from the Skirt Block Pattern Making or chapter 15 from the full figure skirt block pattern making.
You are welcome. You can purchase a one or two year membership, then cancel the monthly subscription auto renewal by clicking on the My Account link, where it says Welcome, dwms. We will then cancel your previous monthly subscription.
Thanks so much for your reply. This information is very helpful. I have been trying out your program for about 6 weeks and I will soon be buying the 1 or 2 year membership. I will be using a different credit card than before. Is this a problem? Should I sign up before or after my next monthly payment is due? Thanks so much for your time.
First make sure that the measurements you used for the bodice block pattern and the skirt block pattern are the same along the waist circumference and the upper and lower hip circumferences. This way the patterns will line up better when connecting them.
Since you have drafted you skirt block pattern for full figure with two darts, you need to ignore the smaller one for the shirt pattern, when joining the bodice block to the skirt block.
You can extend the center line of the bodice waist dart down to the skirt block and draw the new waist dart on both block patterns according to the skirt waist dart intake.
If the side seams do not match, you can make the adjustment according to the larger block pattern.
The amount of ease for the side seams and darts depends on the style of the coat. You don't need to divide the 4 cm in four for each side seam, you can add the 4 cm to each seam line if you like. That means 16 cm of ease in total, around the bust, the waist and the upper and lower hip circumferences. This only applies to when the coat follows the contour of the body.
If the coat is A line shaped from the underarms down, then you obviously need to add much more to the waist and upper and lower hip circumferences. You will also be letting out all the intakes from the waist darts.
The dart intakes can vary depending on the persons body shape, you may let out about half of the intake for the test fitting. You can do a test fitting using cotton flannel, make sure to have extra seam allowances to let you make further adjustments if needed. You need to wear whatever garments you intend to wear under the coat during the test fitting, this way you will get a better idea of the fit.
If you want to own a particular lesson, you can purchase it on DVD. Here is a link to our DVD Videos Store. On orders over $50 we have free shipping to U.S and Canada. International orders are free shipping over $150.
Have you created a video on designing a kick pleat?
This pleat is shown on block pattern that starts the orange skirt drafting video but I can not find the detail on the block pattern design video.
Here are a few thing you can do, to be able to sew the rolled hem by machine.
First, hold the rolled hem close to the hemmer foot on the back as it is being sewn. You should not be holding the fabric too far in the front either. Pull evenly on the back and the front as you sew.
Second, when holding the fabric on the front, hold close to the edge but not right on it. By holding a little lower you will allow the hemmer foot to form the rolled hem as the fabric is being pulled trough the foot.
Third, make sure your index and thumb are holding the fabric right in front and aligned with the spiral section of the hemmer foot.
You can also watch the rolled hem video lesson again, pay special attention to the way I am holding the fabric in front of the hemmer foot.
The end of the thread that I show in the video, is where we should tie the knot. So once we start stitching, the first stitch will be right by the knot. Therefore you need to cut the length you want by the spool and pass that end trough the needle eye.
Adding ease to the side seams does not affect the position of the darts. If we reduce the intake of the darts to add ease to the garment, the darts will become narrower, but the center line of the darts will stay the same. Adding ease to the side seams will not affect the neckline or the sleeve position either.
If we add ease to the side seams, we will need to add ease to the sleeve under arm seam as well.
you can click here to see my answer regarding your question on adding ease in another post.
I have answered a lot of other questions regarding adding ease, you can search for them by typing your topic in the search bar along the top right, then clicking on the search button.
The reason I did not include adding ease to the block pattern video lessons, is that we may choose a style that might not need any ease in certain areas of the garment. However I do show how to add the ease in the garment sewing lessons, where it is required.
I show how to add ease in the chapters where I am styling the block patterns for the below lessons.
Thank you so much, I am happy to see that you are being successful. Dividing the neck circumference by 6 is a constant in the calculations needed when drafting the bodice block pattern.
Hello Nehzat,
I would like to know what type of iron you use and where I could buy one in Toronto, ON
Dear siboney,
Thanks so much for your kind words. I am happy to have inspired you.
First, I suggest that you measure the bodice side seam again, the same as I instruct in the video lesson. If your X falls above W, it is okay. Just draw the bottom part of the armhole to wherever X is located.
The intake of your darts will be smaller for a larger person. Sewing the darts, even with a very small intake will give a finer look to the finished garment.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Deb,
Based on experience, we have seen that dividing the neck circumference by 6, will work best when drafting our patterns.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear bob100,
We do not provide certificates for our members. The best certificate is to show your projects to whoever is interested in knowing your skill level.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear nana4,
We have added your topic to our list for future lessons. Thanks for the suggestion.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear yvelyn,
In many pattern drafting methods the upper hip is not measured. That is why the chart does not have this measurement. However having an upper hip circumference measurement will give a better fit to the pattern.
One way to estimate the average for the upper hip would be to measure this on different sized women you may encounter. For example, if you have a few size 10 friends, you can measure their upper hips and divide by the number of people you measured. This is the best way to get this average for different sizes.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jleuterman,
In the skirt sewing video lesson what I show is an abutted slit on the back. To see how to add the abutted slit to your skirt block pattern you can watch chapter 14 from the Skirt Block Pattern Making or chapter 15 from the full figure skirt block pattern making.
In the future I will show how to do a kick pleat.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I was wondering if you will be having videos on draping soon
as i am ery interested in learning new techniques to dress designing.
thank you so much.
Dear dwms,
You are welcome. You can purchase a one or two year membership, then cancel the monthly subscription auto renewal by clicking on the My Account link, where it says Welcome, dwms. We will then cancel your previous monthly subscription.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thanks so much for your reply. This information is very helpful. I have been trying out your program for about 6 weeks and I will soon be buying the 1 or 2 year membership. I will be using a different credit card than before. Is this a problem? Should I sign up before or after my next monthly payment is due? Thanks so much for your time.
Dear dwms,
First make sure that the measurements you used for the bodice block pattern and the skirt block pattern are the same along the waist circumference and the upper and lower hip circumferences. This way the patterns will line up better when connecting them.
Since you have drafted you skirt block pattern for full figure with two darts, you need to ignore the smaller one for the shirt pattern, when joining the bodice block to the skirt block.
You can extend the center line of the bodice waist dart down to the skirt block and draw the new waist dart on both block patterns according to the skirt waist dart intake.
If the side seams do not match, you can make the adjustment according to the larger block pattern.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear dsaragosa,
The amount of ease for the side seams and darts depends on the style of the coat. You don't need to divide the 4 cm in four for each side seam, you can add the 4 cm to each seam line if you like. That means 16 cm of ease in total, around the bust, the waist and the upper and lower hip circumferences. This only applies to when the coat follows the contour of the body.
If the coat is A line shaped from the underarms down, then you obviously need to add much more to the waist and upper and lower hip circumferences. You will also be letting out all the intakes from the waist darts.
The dart intakes can vary depending on the persons body shape, you may let out about half of the intake for the test fitting. You can do a test fitting using cotton flannel, make sure to have extra seam allowances to let you make further adjustments if needed. You need to wear whatever garments you intend to wear under the coat during the test fitting, this way you will get a better idea of the fit.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear egla_al,
If you want to own a particular lesson, you can purchase it on DVD. Here is a link to our DVD Videos Store. On orders over $50 we have free shipping to U.S and Canada. International orders are free shipping over $150.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
can i download from your page
Have you created a video on designing a kick pleat?
This pleat is shown on block pattern that starts the orange skirt drafting video but I can not find the detail on the block pattern design video.
Dear Enas,
Here are a few thing you can do, to be able to sew the rolled hem by machine.
First, hold the rolled hem close to the hemmer foot on the back as it is being sewn. You should not be holding the fabric too far in the front either. Pull evenly on the back and the front as you sew.
Second, when holding the fabric on the front, hold close to the edge but not right on it. By holding a little lower you will allow the hemmer foot to form the rolled hem as the fabric is being pulled trough the foot.
Third, make sure your index and thumb are holding the fabric right in front and aligned with the spiral section of the hemmer foot.
You can also watch the rolled hem video lesson again, pay special attention to the way I am holding the fabric in front of the hemmer foot.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I appreciate your answering my question so promptly. Yes, that was just the clarification I needed... Thank you!
Dear Cinthia,
Thanks for the suggestions and the kind words. We are working on making video lessons on these topics as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear cyranois,
The end of the thread that I show in the video, is where we should tie the knot. So once we start stitching, the first stitch will be right by the knot. Therefore you need to cut the length you want by the spool and pass that end trough the needle eye.
Hope this clarifies it.
Nehzat
Dear dwms,
Adding ease to the side seams does not affect the position of the darts. If we reduce the intake of the darts to add ease to the garment, the darts will become narrower, but the center line of the darts will stay the same. Adding ease to the side seams will not affect the neckline or the sleeve position either.
If we add ease to the side seams, we will need to add ease to the sleeve under arm seam as well.
you can click here to see my answer regarding your question on adding ease in another post.
I have answered a lot of other questions regarding adding ease, you can search for them by typing your topic in the search bar along the top right, then clicking on the search button.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear dwms,
The reason I did not include adding ease to the block pattern video lessons, is that we may choose a style that might not need any ease in certain areas of the garment. However I do show how to add the ease in the garment sewing lessons, where it is required.
I show how to add ease in the chapters where I am styling the block patterns for the below lessons.
You can check out the shirts sewing lesson, the dress with pleated skirt, and the dress with princess seams.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Banjo,
Thank you so much, I am happy to see that you are being successful. Dividing the neck circumference by 6 is a constant in the calculations needed when drafting the bodice block pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hello Ms.Nehzat,
Thanks for greeting. I am too late to say "Eid Mubarak".
Please visit our page, especially our Relica Folder. That is what we r doing now. You can contact us through this page.
We have some common innterest. I shall b looking forward to sharing our interests.
Best regards