If you intend to wash your garments at home, then you will need to preshrink the fabric by washing it. Not all fabrics shrink when washed, especially synthetic ones.
Generally when we do dry cleaning they use a different kind of cleaning method that does not include water, so that the fabric does not shrink. However when dry cleaners press the garments using steam, this could cause some shrinkage on cotton materials.
Keep in mind that for synthetic fabrics the simple process of ironing will also cause some shrinkage because of the heat.
Even if you intend to dry clean something you have sewn, it is always best to press your fabric before cutting and sewing your garment.
In mass produced garments, they usually do not preshrink fabric.
To keep light color fabrics from staining or getting dirty during sewing, you can make sure that the table, sewing machine, scissors, the iron and any other tools that come into contact with the fabric and your hands are cleaned before hand.
For example: When I am sewing light colored fabrics, I wash all my pins with soap and water and dry them well. If I drop pins on the floor, I make sure not to use them before cleaning them.
Washing your hands every time you come to work on your project and not using any lotions prevents the fabric from absorbing dirt as well.
Thank you so much for the compliments. We used a heavy fabric made for outdoors upholstery and a jeans needle, when sewing the lining, since it was a medium weight muslin fabric we used a finer needle.
Thank you so much, I wish you the best in the coming year as well.
To get a palazzo pants to have a 25 to 30 inch circumference at the bottom hemline, you need to add the width of the hemlines on both the front and back patterns together and subtract it from the amount you intend to increase it by, in your case (25 to 30 inches).
What ever the difference, you need to divide by 4 and add on either side of the hemline for the back and front patterns (first you need to extend the hemline out on either side).
For the side seams: You draw a line up to the lower hip, if you want the top section to be fitted. Otherwise you can draw the line up to the waistline on both the front and back patterns.
You may need to smooth out the side seam line if there are any sharp points along the lower hip line for the fitted top section.
If you want the top to be gathered and more comfortable around the hip, you can add to the lower hip line as well, on the side seams. Then draw the line up to the enlarged lower hip from the hemline and continue up to the waistline.
For the inseam: You will draw a line from the extended hemline to the crotch, you can do this for the fitted or the gathered waistline.
For the inseam you can also, draw a curved line from the extended hemline to the crotch point, if you don't want too much fabric between your knees and the crotch point.
Happy to see that our videos have given you the confidence to do this alteration.
First you should know that whatever changes you make to the shell of the garment, you need to also do to the lining.
If you prefer the neckline to be lower down, then you will need to do a fitting and mark the new neckline using tailor's chalk, both on the front and back.
This way you will be confident in knowing how much to trim away. Make sure to leave some fabric for the seam allowances.
Welcome to our site, thanks for your warm words. I am always pleased to hear form our members and get their feedback. I will be happy to answer your questions anytime.
We do not have any specific alteration videos for bridal gowns. However we have many different alteration and remodeling videos as well as sewing garments from scratch. These video lessons together will give you a lot of knowledge that you can apply to bridal gown alterations.
I would shorten the sleeves first, then do the pocket flaps and then the side seams.
I prefer the first method you explained for shortening the flaps better. When you are sewing the lining to the shell at the bottom edge of the flap, I suggest sewing the lining to the shell using backstitches from the right side, after folding in the seam allowance of the shell and lining.
This way it will look like it has been sewn by machine.
Please let me know if the 25" to 30" you are referring to is the circumference of the hemline? Also how do you want the top of the pants to be from the lower hip up to the waistline? For example: fitted, gathered or pleated?
The other idea I had for the pocket flap is to unpick then cut the flap-lining off leaving 1cm still attached at the seam.
Then sew with right sides together to the shell side of the flap and turn inside out.
Then press the raw edge of the lining upwards to meet the inside seam (overlapping unto the 1cm I left) and stictch in place from above by stitching in the ditch.
This might be a quicker method and easier way to create a neat edge for the flap but I'm not sure if it's a professional enough approach, or if I'll be able to attach the raw edge as described.
Also, regards the pockets. - It is a lined flap which I am shortening. There is not enough room to turn them inside out to sew them together so I considering just sewing a baste line with the desired new shape unto both shell and lining, pressing both into this shape and then just hand sewing them togther with an invisble stitch. Does this sound correct?
I am also shortening the front flap pockets so that the jacket reamins balanced, as well as shortening the sleeves and taking in the side seams. It is a mens jacket. I'm just wondering the best order to sew each part before I stitch it up again at the side seam.
Would I start with the pockets first or does it make little difference?
Dear Madam.
Thanks a lot for your helpful. tips. I want to know what variations are necessary in pant block pattern to make a plazo pant forming in 25"-30" bottom.
Before trimming the excess length from the lining, make sure to leave a few cm for the moving ease. This will ensure that the lining will not pull on the shell when the jacket is worn.
To reattach the lining to the bottom hem of the jacket shell, first look for a spot along the middle of the sleeve seams on the lining, where the seam is sewn from the outside.
You can remove these stitches to get access to the inside of the jacket. Pull the bottom of the jacket out trough this opening, then pin and sew the lining to the top of the hem allowance of the shell.
Then turn the jacket right side out and sew the opening in the sleeve lining closed.
In all these lessons we have combined the bodice block pattern with the skirt block pattern and styled it according to the style of our garment then added seam and hem allowances.
An Serger (also called an Overlocker) is a completely different type of sewing machine, and most home sewists don't own one. They are used to give the edges of garments a professional finish.
This collar seams to be a shall collar, we will be making a garment using this type of collar in the near future. Once we release the video lesson, we will email all of our member.
Here are a few tricks I have used to get the same coloured thread for topstitching when I could not find the exact match.
One way is to save the topstitch thread when you need to alter a location by removing the existing topstitch.
Another way is if the garment uses the same type of thread for the seams as the topstitch thread. Then you can open these seams, save the threads for your topstitch and use a different thread to sew the seams you opened.
A third option, is if there are not too many locations with topstitch, then you can remove all the existing topstitch threads and topstitch again using your own color.
When you remove the topstitch thread, make sure to press it before using it. Place the iron on the thread and pull it out as you press the iron downwards.
Dear Fran,
Thanks for the suggestion, I am planing to make video lessons on more pocket styles soon.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Dsmile,
If you intend to wash your garments at home, then you will need to preshrink the fabric by washing it. Not all fabrics shrink when washed, especially synthetic ones.
Generally when we do dry cleaning they use a different kind of cleaning method that does not include water, so that the fabric does not shrink. However when dry cleaners press the garments using steam, this could cause some shrinkage on cotton materials.
Keep in mind that for synthetic fabrics the simple process of ironing will also cause some shrinkage because of the heat.
Even if you intend to dry clean something you have sewn, it is always best to press your fabric before cutting and sewing your garment.
In mass produced garments, they usually do not preshrink fabric.
To keep light color fabrics from staining or getting dirty during sewing, you can make sure that the table, sewing machine, scissors, the iron and any other tools that come into contact with the fabric and your hands are cleaned before hand.
For example: When I am sewing light colored fabrics, I wash all my pins with soap and water and dry them well. If I drop pins on the floor, I make sure not to use them before cleaning them.
Washing your hands every time you come to work on your project and not using any lotions prevents the fabric from absorbing dirt as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Kate,
Thank you so much for the compliments. We used a heavy fabric made for outdoors upholstery and a jeans needle, when sewing the lining, since it was a medium weight muslin fabric we used a finer needle.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Saima Saliha,
Thank you so much, I wish you the best in the coming year as well.
To get a palazzo pants to have a 25 to 30 inch circumference at the bottom hemline, you need to add the width of the hemlines on both the front and back patterns together and subtract it from the amount you intend to increase it by, in your case (25 to 30 inches).
What ever the difference, you need to divide by 4 and add on either side of the hemline for the back and front patterns (first you need to extend the hemline out on either side).
For the side seams: You draw a line up to the lower hip, if you want the top section to be fitted. Otherwise you can draw the line up to the waistline on both the front and back patterns.
You may need to smooth out the side seam line if there are any sharp points along the lower hip line for the fitted top section.
If you want the top to be gathered and more comfortable around the hip, you can add to the lower hip line as well, on the side seams. Then draw the line up to the enlarged lower hip from the hemline and continue up to the waistline.
For the inseam: You will draw a line from the extended hemline to the crotch, you can do this for the fitted or the gathered waistline.
For the inseam you can also, draw a curved line from the extended hemline to the crotch point, if you don't want too much fabric between your knees and the crotch point.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Deb,
Happy to see that our videos have given you the confidence to do this alteration.
First you should know that whatever changes you make to the shell of the garment, you need to also do to the lining.
If you prefer the neckline to be lower down, then you will need to do a fitting and mark the new neckline using tailor's chalk, both on the front and back.
This way you will be confident in knowing how much to trim away. Make sure to leave some fabric for the seam allowances.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Dsmile,
Welcome to our site, thanks for your warm words. I am always pleased to hear form our members and get their feedback. I will be happy to answer your questions anytime.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Devinealterations,
We do not have any specific alteration videos for bridal gowns. However we have many different alteration and remodeling videos as well as sewing garments from scratch. These video lessons together will give you a lot of knowledge that you can apply to bridal gown alterations.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Enasokab,
if I may ask, which website did u purchase ur garment from. I think am interested in ordering some online.
thanking you
Deb
May this year bethe bestest of your life, with lots of happyiness and success.
Wishing u a gloroous year
regards:saimasaliha
Salam Madam,
i want the circumference of the hemline is 25"to 30". I want the fitted top of the pants to be frome the
lower hip up to the waistline but my sis wants gathered
plz explain i,m thankfull to u
Dear floorpie,
I would shorten the sleeves first, then do the pocket flaps and then the side seams.
I prefer the first method you explained for shortening the flaps better. When you are sewing the lining to the shell at the bottom edge of the flap, I suggest sewing the lining to the shell using backstitches from the right side, after folding in the seam allowance of the shell and lining.
This way it will look like it has been sewn by machine.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear SaimaSaliha,
Please let me know if the 25" to 30" you are referring to is the circumference of the hemline? Also how do you want the top of the pants to be from the lower hip up to the waistline? For example: fitted, gathered or pleated?
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Ruthie,
Thanks for the kind words and welcome to our site. I hope that you can find the lessons helpful.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Winsome,
Welcome to our site, I hope you will benefit from our lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
The other idea I had for the pocket flap is to unpick then cut the flap-lining off leaving 1cm still attached at the seam.
Then sew with right sides together to the shell side of the flap and turn inside out.
Then press the raw edge of the lining upwards to meet the inside seam (overlapping unto the 1cm I left) and stictch in place from above by stitching in the ditch.
This might be a quicker method and easier way to create a neat edge for the flap but I'm not sure if it's a professional enough approach, or if I'll be able to attach the raw edge as described.
Also, regards the pockets. - It is a lined flap which I am shortening. There is not enough room to turn them inside out to sew them together so I considering just sewing a baste line with the desired new shape unto both shell and lining, pressing both into this shape and then just hand sewing them togther with an invisble stitch. Does this sound correct?
Thank you.
I am also shortening the front flap pockets so that the jacket reamins balanced, as well as shortening the sleeves and taking in the side seams. It is a mens jacket. I'm just wondering the best order to sew each part before I stitch it up again at the side seam.
Would I start with the pockets first or does it make little difference?
Hello,
Do you have any videos on the most common bridal gown alterations ?
Dear Madam.
Thanks a lot for your helpful. tips. I want to know what variations are necessary in pant block pattern to make a plazo pant forming in 25"-30" bottom.
Dear floorpie,
Thanks so much for your kind words.
Before trimming the excess length from the lining, make sure to leave a few cm for the moving ease. This will ensure that the lining will not pull on the shell when the jacket is worn.
To reattach the lining to the bottom hem of the jacket shell, first look for a spot along the middle of the sleeve seams on the lining, where the seam is sewn from the outside.
You can remove these stitches to get access to the inside of the jacket. Pull the bottom of the jacket out trough this opening, then pin and sew the lining to the top of the hem allowance of the shell.
Then turn the jacket right side out and sew the opening in the sleeve lining closed.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear josephor,
We have used the bodice block pattern in a few different lessons, such as the Shirt Sewing Lesson, the Dress with Pleated Skirt Lesson and the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson.
In all these lessons we have combined the bodice block pattern with the skirt block pattern and styled it according to the style of our garment then added seam and hem allowances.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
An Serger (also called an Overlocker) is a completely different type of sewing machine, and most home sewists don't own one. They are used to give the edges of garments a professional finish.
Here's a blog link I've found really helpful which shows 4 different ways to get a nice finish on seams without needing one: http://www.sewmamasew.com/2012/08/finishing-a-garment-without-a-serger/
hope this also helps!
Thank you so much your videos and your personal feedback are very much appreciated.
Dear nguember,
This collar seams to be a shall collar, we will be making a garment using this type of collar in the near future. Once we release the video lesson, we will email all of our member.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear nana4,
Here are a few tricks I have used to get the same coloured thread for topstitching when I could not find the exact match.
One way is to save the topstitch thread when you need to alter a location by removing the existing topstitch.
Another way is if the garment uses the same type of thread for the seams as the topstitch thread. Then you can open these seams, save the threads for your topstitch and use a different thread to sew the seams you opened.
A third option, is if there are not too many locations with topstitch, then you can remove all the existing topstitch threads and topstitch again using your own color.
When you remove the topstitch thread, make sure to press it before using it. Place the iron on the thread and pull it out as you press the iron downwards.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat