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bra cut saari blouse
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Mon, 08/13/2012 - 01:10
Dear nehzat
I learnt how to draft the bodice block and sleeve block from your website. Then after I am trying to make pattern for bra cut saree blouse. This has opening in the front and fitted sleeves. This blouse consists of two darts, centre front dart and a midriff dart. Below the midriff there is a waist yoke. The length of the blouse is upto waist. The back neck is deep and the fron neck is medium. The back pattern has only waist darts and no soulder dart. Can you please help me in stying the bodice and sleeve block to make this saari blouse. Thankyou very much.
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Dear drani,
From the explanation you gave, I understand that your saree blouse does not have a side bust dart. Instead it has a center front dart.
To be able to make this change on the pattern, you need to draw a line from the center front, where you want the center front dart to be. You need to draw and connect it to the bust point, where the side bust dart ends.
Then you need to close the side bust dart and tape it down. Cut this line. This will create an opening. This way the intake of the side bust dart will be transferred to the cut line and create a dart. Place a piece of paper under and tape it in place.
Now you need to move the dart point away from the bust point, to create a soft rounded area on the bust point. This distance can be 2 to 3 cm away on the center line of this new dart. Redraw the dart legs from this point. Close this dart to trim the excess paper. Since your center front is open, make sure to add seam allowances to the center front line.
For the yoke you need to draw a line parallel to the waistline, according to the width that you want. Close the waist darts on the front and back patterns and tape them in place. Cut the line you drew, both on the front and the back patterns. Then add your seam allowances.
The yokes on the front and back do not have any darts. But the top section has the midriff dart on the front and back patterns.
You can use the same yoke that you cut from your pattern, or draft a new straight one.
If you do not want to have a center back seam, since the center front is open. The intake of the center back dart needs to be transferred to the back waist darts.
You can use the same sleeve style that we drafted in the Set-in Sleeve Block Drafting Video Lesson, or if you like it a bit more fitted, you can reduce the ease that we added. We added 1.5 cm of ease in the 3rd chapter for the bicep width. You can add 0.8 cm or 8 mm instead since saree fabric is usually not stretchy.
I suggest that you also use a narrower strip of folded paper, when measuring for the bodice and the sleeve block patterns. So the strip going under the armpit should be about 1.5 cm wide, since a more fitted sleeve should have a shorter bicep depth and requiers a higher side seam at the armhole as well.
Hope this helps you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat