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Drafting straight leg style from the thigh.
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Sat, 05/21/2011 - 23:45
I've drafted and sewn the straight leg pants pattern. Problem - I'm a diamond shape with protruding stomach and from the lower hip I narrow quite a lot like the bottom of a diamond. However the very tops of my legs on the inside are a problem - a bit oversized! How do I draft a straight leg style of pants that hang straight from the lower hip/thigh area that do not accentuate my problems or end up 'smiling' in the crotch area? The pants fit well around the behind and stomach but I seem to end up with excess material in the back between the bottom of the behind and knee area. I've sewn the same pattern in material that had some stretch and these problems were not as evident.
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Dear Jaybee,
In order to fix the problems you are having, you need to extend the front crotch line and the back crotch line outward in the same direction.
For your particular body shape you need to try and find out how much these extensions will be.
For example you can add 1 cm to the front and 2 cm to the back pattern. Then you need to merge this points with the original inseam lines, even merging right at the hemline if you like.
You can also extend the hemline out on the inseam side then draw a new inseam line parallel to the previous one, intersecting the extended hemline at the bottom. You do this on the front and back pattern.
Finally you should decrease the curve at the top of the inseam lines below the crotch point, on the front and back. So that the lines do not go in too much and effect the inner thigh area.
It's best if you make a muck up on muslin.
Doing these things should fix the problems you mentioned.
Let me know how this works out for you,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat