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Please help! Princess seams not matching.

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5 replies [Last post]
Wed, 08/22/2018 - 16:42
surabeily
User offline. Last seen 5 years 36 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 05/17/2015
Posts: 7

I feel really confused when watching the princess seam video. First of all I am not trying to make that dress, so to weed out what I dont need its taking hours of watching just to get what I need. For some reason my princess seams are not matching. My smaller piece on side seam part seams to be too long at the top. I tried to cut it so its not pointy, but its way too long. Its hard to follow the video because I am making regular shoulders and neck line. I think there should be videos of basic styles, and then from there explain changes. Also I feel there are way too may steps in this video!I dont think all of them are so nessecary. Very tedious steps. Its making me a little fustrated. also to find my answer going through all these videos. I feel there are too many steps to take notes or to remember so everytime I want to make something I have to watch first hours and hours of videos. I dont know what to do.

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Tue, 08/28/2018 - 10:42
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 7 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Princess seam

Dear Surabeily,

This video lesson is intended to teach this particular style of dress, for someone who has never sewn such a style, or for someone who has run into an issue when sewing this style in the past. This is why we went through it step by step to make sure the outcome looks professional, even for a beginner.
 
It takes a lot of patience to achieve good results in sewing.

The notches and tailor tacks should be matched to their corresponding marks to ensure that the pieces fit well together when you see the garment. The side piece may look longer on the front or back patterns. It looks longer when we add the seam allowances. However the seam lines are exactly the same length.

The style of neckline and regular shoulders, should not affect the princess seams.

 
I hope this helps you out to achieve your goals.
 
 
Happy sewing,
 
Nehzat

 

 

 

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Wed, 08/29/2018 - 04:34
#2
surabeily
User offline. Last seen 5 years 36 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 05/17/2015
Posts: 7
 When sewing the princess

 When sewing the princess seams together the smaller piece was too long and going way beyond. I had to cut it to match. Dont know why it ended up like that. Anyway it seems to be okay that I cut it. 

 

The armholes from all the videos I watched in the past from other people they say back needs to be bigger, and usually the armhole syche is a lot more than mine. Mine is 34cm total. It seems okay, I didnt try it on yet since its not finished. But if you say this is normal than okay. Just want to make sure I followed the video correctly.

 
Also I meausred a dress that fits me perfectly. The side seam is the same as my pattern, the front armpit distance, bodice length, etc... Everything seems to be exact same measurment, but somehow the armhole is longer. Its 22cm each side. And its not far in or overly curved. How can this be?? I thought the only way was is to shorten side seam or armpit distance, but I checked a few garments and the side seam is the same as mine or longer and the armholes on all my garments are longer. I dont understand. 

 

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Mon, 09/03/2018 - 16:49
#3
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 7 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Princess Seam

Dear Surabeily,

I suggest that you draft another pattern. Measure your body again making sure to follow the video lesson step by step.

When drafting the pattern double check your calculations as well. The side peace should not become longer. When sewing the princess seam, make sure that the tailor tacks and notches are matching. Watch the chapter where I show how to sew the princess seam. Go over the lesson without skipping any chapters to get a good idea of how to do the seams, without any issues.

The best thing to do, would be to sew a garment out of muslin and check the fitting before you cut your main fabric. This will let you know how the garment will fit. You don't need to compare it to other garments as each will have its own style which effects it's measurements.

Hope this helps.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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Thu, 08/23/2018 - 14:56
#4
surabeily
User offline. Last seen 5 years 36 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 05/17/2015
Posts: 7
Armhole

Also armholes seem a little small and I double checked all the measurments. But most of all the back armhole is 2cm smaller  no matter what I try to do. I dont understand it. Is it supposed to be like that?  

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Tue, 08/28/2018 - 10:22
#5
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 7 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Back armhole is smaller

Dear Surabeily,

 
The back armhole is always smaller than the front armhole. Because of the bust and the position of the arms which are more towards the front  of the body, the front armhole becomes bigger.
 
Happy sewing,
 
 
Nehzat
 
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