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Second fitting problems

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1 reply [Last post]
Sun, 07/21/2013 - 10:33
dandelion
User offline. Last seen 10 years 45 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 01/08/2012
Posts: 3

I am altering a number a skirts for a friend, taking them in after a lot of weight loss. I took in between 6-8 cm total for each skirt. 

 
I did the first fitting, then followed Nehzat's pants side seam alterations tutorials (excellent BTW) up to the second fitting. When doing the second fitting, one of the skirts was too tight, even though I was very careful to follow the basting lines, right next to them on the outside. My theory is, the basting stitches were loose compared to permanent stitching, which probably mattered more on that particular skirt since it was a double-knit fabric and already had more ease. Is there a formula to compensate for this?? Or any suggestions on basting in such a way that it is easy to take out yet allows for a more accurate fitting with knits?

I ended up adding 1/2 cm to each side of the skirt, which caused some difficulties in the waistband, as I had already trimmed for bulk. Learned the hard way, not to trim at such a wide angle, or even not at all until final stitching. In the end, I managed to reinstall the waist band. The skirt fits perfectly now. However it required a lot of unnecessary work due to the fact that I had already trimmed the inside seams of the waist band...thankfully, I had left the seam allowance slightly wider than normal, because my friend requested I leave extra in case she gains weight in the future. Had I not done that I would have had to add fabric to the waist band under one of the belt loops.

Another question, on the subject of taking in side seams for skirts: Is there a formula for calculating how many centimeters to take off from the high hip and lower hip and on down to the hem in relation to what is taken off in the waist band?? I just winged it, and tried to follow the curve of the original side seams, making it even on both sides. It worked, but a formula would make results quicker and more predictable.

On a different subject, I found it was much easier, since the waist band was rather wide, to just take it all off until the back center zipper, and then reinstall the waist band when all the inner work was finished. Without doing so on a wide waist band, there isn't enough room to maneuver  It also helped in neatening up the placement of the decorative belt loops, since they were attached in a noticeably uneven manner both around the waist band and vertically.

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Thu, 07/25/2013 - 15:23
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Second Fitting Problems

Dear  dandelion,

Because each person's body has a different shape, only when we are taking in a garment during the fitting, we find out how much we need to take in at different parts of the garment.

To get a better idea of what the outcome will be, for example at side seams, try to take in the same amount on both sides, at the same time. Look at the garment in the mirror while doing the fitting. Your pins should be close together, so that you can see the result more clearly.

When pinning knitted fabrics, try not to stretch the fabric as you pin. this will make the garment tight.

Hope this helps.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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