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Set In sleeves
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Mon, 09/07/2009 - 20:19
Is there a secret to sewing set in sleeves. When I pinned the sleeve to the shoulder, there was a half inch of the sleeve too much with no shoulder to pin it to. What's up with that; or what's the secret? Thaniks.
Wed, 07/25/2012 - 12:01
#2
Hi Nehzat,
In the sweater
Hi Nehzat,
In the sweater remodeling video, you basted the sleeves to the bodice by hand to, and I quote the video, " distribute the gathering evenly" through out the sleeve cap. When do you do that and when do you "gather or ease the fabric ONLY between the notches." I'm so confused.
Also, in the same video chapter 11. You drew a mark 10cm down on the front and back armholes, but on the sleeves you drew a mark that is 10.5 cm down from the top. How come the numbers don't match?
Thanks
Thu, 08/02/2012 - 17:14
#3
Re: Sweater Remodeling Sleeve Cap
Dear enasokab,
In the Sweater Remodeling video lesson, chapter 16, I mentioned "Since the sleeve is larger than the armhole, basting by hand will evenly distribute the excess sleeve fabric along the armhole opening".
In chapter 11, when we measure the top of the sleeve and the top of the arm cap, we notice that the sleeve is 2 cm larger. This is the way it should be, as the top of sleeves are always larger than the armhole. This excess will allow the sleeve to fall nicely when the sweater is worn. For sweaters, 2 cm is a good difference. Half of this difference will go on the front and half on the back of the armhole.
So the sleeve will have 1 cm of ease on the front and 1 cm of ease on the back.
Since we are marking about the half way point on the armholes (10 cm down) from the shoulder seam, we should mark the half way point on the sleeve at 10.5 cm. This way the difference is evenly distributed on the front and back of each armhole.
In this case, since our fabric is knitted it is easier to work with when easing, so we don't need to gather it first.
When joining the sleeve to the armhole on woven fabric, it is better to sew two rows of machine stitch along the top of the sleeve cap and draw the threads to gather the fabric for the ease. This makes it easier to evenly distribute the excess fabric of the sleeve when joining it to the armhole. I recommend that you also watch the Jacket and Coat Alteration: Shoulder Shortening and Shoulder Pad Video Lesson especially Chapter 18.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Fri, 11/22/2013 - 16:45
#4
altering a set in sleeve pattern
Hi,
I altered the entire bodice of a pattern by decreasing it 2 inches. I tried to do the same with the set in sleeve pattern but it's not matching with the bodice arm hole. Could you please give me some advice or point me to a tutorial video that addresses my question? Thank you.
Tue, 12/03/2013 - 14:38
#5
Re: Altering a set in sleeve pattern
Dear LaBelle Tifi,
Please let me know what type of garment you are sewing. Also what kind of material it is made of and where you made the alteration to the bodice and sleeve patterns. Did you decrease the 2 inches from each side seam or 2 inches in total. Please also let me know if you drafted the patterns using our video lessons or if you are using ready made patterns.
Once I know this information, I will be able to give you proper advice.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Quick Links:
Dear Diana2lvn,
The sleeve caps are usually larger than the arm holes. You either have to gather the cap or ease it to make it fit the armhole. The excess fabric is going to give the sleeves more room to move and be comfortable to wear.
Make sure that when you set in the sleeve you do so by matching the marks on the sleeve and armhole and gather or ease the fabric between the notches.
To gather or ease the sleeve cap, sew two parallel lines of ease stitches about 5 mm apart, within the seam allowance and gather the fabric between the notches as needed. This way you can fit the sleeve in the armhole and sew it easily.
To give the sleeve a finer look when easing, leave about 3 cm of un-eased fabric at the top of the cap, where it is sewn to the shoulder seam area. However if the excess fabric was more than half an inch then you would gather the entire top cap of the sleeve.
Let me know how this works out for you.
Thanks
Nehzat