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Shortening a Jacket

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5 replies [Last post]
Tue, 12/17/2013 - 11:59
floorpie
User offline. Last seen 9 years 39 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 12/17/2013
Posts: 5

 Hello

Your tutorials are amazing in detail, thank you so much for providing this resource!

I am currently shortening a suit jacket.  I wanted specifically advice on my options for how to re-attach the lining to the jacket at the base.

Any advice is much appreicated.

Floorpie :)

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Thu, 12/19/2013 - 14:02
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Shortening a Jacket

Dear floorpie,

Thanks so much for your kind words. 

Before trimming the excess length from the lining, make sure to leave a few cm for the moving ease. This will ensure that the lining will not pull on the shell when the jacket is worn.

To reattach the lining to the bottom hem of the jacket shell, first look for a spot along the middle of the sleeve seams on the lining, where the seam is sewn from the outside.

You can remove these stitches to get access to the inside of the jacket. Pull the bottom of the jacket out trough this opening, then pin and sew the lining to the top of the hem allowance of the shell. 

Then turn the jacket right side out and sew the opening in the sleeve lining closed.

Hope this helps.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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Sat, 12/21/2013 - 17:34
#2
floorpie
User offline. Last seen 9 years 39 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 12/17/2013
Posts: 5
 Thank you. I am also

 Thank you.

I am also shortening the front flap pockets so that the jacket reamins balanced, as well as shortening the sleeves and taking in the side seams. It is a mens jacket. I'm just wondering the best order to sew each part before I stitch it up again at the side seam.
Would I start with the pockets first or does it make little difference?

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Thu, 12/26/2013 - 16:43
#3
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Men's jacket alteration

 Dear floorpie,

I would shorten the sleeves first, then do the pocket flaps and then the side seams.

I prefer the first method you explained for shortening the flaps better. When you are sewing the lining to the shell at the bottom edge of the flap, I suggest sewing the lining to the shell using backstitches from the right side, after folding in the seam allowance of the shell and lining.

This way it will look like it has been sewn by machine.

Happy sewing, 

Nehzat

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Sat, 12/21/2013 - 18:48
#4
floorpie
User offline. Last seen 9 years 39 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 12/17/2013
Posts: 5
 Also, regards the pockets. -

 Also, regards the pockets. - It is a lined flap which I am shortening. There is not enough room to turn them inside out to sew them together so I considering just sewing a baste line with the desired new shape unto both shell and lining, pressing both into this shape and then just hand sewing them togther with an invisble stitch. Does this sound correct?

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Sat, 12/21/2013 - 20:02
#5
floorpie
User offline. Last seen 9 years 39 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 12/17/2013
Posts: 5
The other idea I had for the

The other idea I had for the pocket flap is to unpick then cut the flap-lining off leaving 1cm still attached at the seam.
Then sew with right sides together to the shell side of the flap and turn inside out.
Then press the raw edge of the lining upwards to meet the inside seam (overlapping unto the 1cm I left) and stictch in place from above by stitching in the ditch.

This might be a quicker method and easier way to create a neat edge for the flap but I'm not sure if it's a professional enough approach, or if I'll be able to attach the raw edge as described.


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