Strapless Dress

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Wed, 03/13/2013 - 17:17
sharonsevigny
User offline. Last seen 12 years 9 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 04/13/2012
Posts: 1

 I have a dress shape in my head and I'm just trying to figure out the best way to sew it.  I want it to be strapless, with a bodice that is gathered in the center.  How do I take the measurements I need in order to have it fit properly around the bust after the material is gathered?  And do you suggest using an elastic at the top of the dress to keep it up or would a zipper be more approprite considering the gathering?

 

Image

The top of this dress is what I'm trying to accomplish 
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Wed, 03/20/2013 - 14:36
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 12 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Strapless Dress

Dear Sharon,

To make sure the material fits around the bust area, you measure the same way as in the lesson to draft the block pattern. Next you style the top line of the pattern to get the look that you want. To get the ruching effect you need to cut the pattern horizontally into strips, down to about two thirds of the bodice side seam length, since you are ruching just the bust area. The strips can be about 1 cm wide. You can space them out between 2 to 2.5 cm. Then fill the gaps in with paper by placing a sheet of pattern paper under the cut area and tape the strips in place.

Make sure to cut the fabric on a bias.

You can have a zipper at the center back or the side seam. 

On the interlining, the side bust darts should be transferred to the top of the bust points. To hold the top of the dress in place, you can use boning going down from above the bust point darts down to the waist line, going trough the waist darts. Use boning for the back waist darts and the side seams as well.

You can also use breast cups which help the garment stay in place and allow you to shape the ruching easily. 

Hope this helps. Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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