When calculating for the bust line of the back bodice pattern, you can divide the bust circumference by 4. Then deduct up to 2 cm from it and mark on the bust line. When drawing the front bodice block pattern, you divide the bust circumference by 4 and add this amount to it.
This way the side seam on the bodice will not be placed too much towards the front.
The same thing can be done for the waistline and lower hip-line, if the front of the body is fuller than the back,
I wish you a very happy and peacful Eid. May Allah accept our good deeds,
forgive our transgressions and let's not forget the suffering of all the people around the globe and help even with a dua and a penny
Thank you Nehzat, I actually was here at midnight but somehow didn't see the last part...I was exhausted and just wasn't focusing. Really appreciate these tutorials. They open my eyes! :)
You can see how to sew the front and back bodice together by watching the Shirt Sewing Video Lesson. In this lesson I show how to style and add ease to the bodice block patterns, then cut the shirt pieces from muslin and sew a shirt. Then do a fitting and then cut and sew the shirt using the main fabric.
You can divide the bodice waist darts the same way as the skirt to make sure they are the same and that the darts line up when you join the patterns together.
If you want the dress to be fitted you can sew both darts on either side.
A second option is to sew both darts on either side, but reduce their intake.
A third option is to not sew the smaller darts, this will add some ease to your garment in the waist area. This works especially well for full figures.
I recommend checking on muslin so you can decide which way you prefer most depending on your body shape. Check the fit in the mirror from different angles to help you decide.
Thanks for the kind words. I am happy to see that you like the video lessons. Right now all of the pattern making video lessons have an image you can click on with the pattern on it. There is also a list of measurements on the side that you will need to take. You can print this sheet and keep it as a reference and note down your measurements as you go along.
There should be no problem with lowering the side seam until the bodice fits you. If you do a test fitting on muslin, you can always estimate how much you need to lower the side seam length by. The same goes for the armpit area. Then make the same adjustments to your pattern. This way, when you cut and sew your main fabric, there won't be any problems.
I drafted a new bodice block and decreased the back armpit, front armpit and side seam length. I still have too much fabrick near the bottom of armhole on back and creases when I move my arm. So I guess the area is bustline at W and just about a cm above that then down to the seam under the arm at X. Will lowering the sideseam length even more create problems elsewhere. Does 14cm sound like it would work. I am short between the underarm and waist and could try this. It is hard to measure myself and get an accurate measurement. Thank you for your help. Pat
Thanks for your question, below is a link to an answer I gave about this topic to another member. Please click to read the answer. If you have any questions please let me know.
When drafting the culotte pattern, you should add to the crotch length. This amount varies from 2 to 4 cm depending on the weight or thickness of your fabric. So you would less for a light weight fabric and more for a heavier one.
Make sure to do a test fitting on muslin, to make sure you like the fit.
I believe that you have measured the front and back armpit distances more than you body measurements. I also think that you may have measured your side seam length longer as well.
Please watch the video lesson where I give instructions for taking these measurements again, to make sure you are taking them correctly.
If this is the case than your pattern should be adjusted according to the new measurements.
Culottes are pants that look like skirts when worn. By changing the center front and center back lines to make them look like a pants crotch, we can make a skirt pattern into a culotte.
The inseam of the culotte should be coming straight down or sloped outwards. You can have pleats between the center front and side seams or close the darts and slash from the dart points down to the hemline. Doing this will flare out the the bottom of the skirt.
The grain line on the pattern should be along the center back for the one piece peter pan collar with an opening on the front.
If the peter pan collar opens on the back for a garment with a back opening, using zipper or button and buttonholes, then the peter pan collar will be split into two pieces. In this case the grain line of the peter pan collar should be parallel to the center back line of the bodice pattern.
We are planing to make another embroidery video lesson in the future, which will include different embroidery stitches as well as the satin stitch. For now please watch the below videos that explain how to do satin stitch embroidery.
hello, thank you for your beautiful website. I am learning a lot from it. Currently I am engaging in a sewing project that requires me to do a satin stitch. I believe this stitch is an embroidery technique but I did not see it on your site. Is there anyway you can make a video showing this stitch? Thank you!
Dear Cheryl,
When calculating for the bust line of the back bodice pattern, you can divide the bust circumference by 4. Then deduct up to 2 cm from it and mark on the bust line. When drawing the front bodice block pattern, you divide the bust circumference by 4 and add this amount to it.
This way the side seam on the bodice will not be placed too much towards the front.
The same thing can be done for the waistline and lower hip-line, if the front of the body is fuller than the back,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I wish you a very happy and peacful Eid. May Allah accept our good deeds,
forgive our transgressions and let's not forget the suffering of all the people around the globe and help even with a dua and a penny
EID MUBARAK
Dear Cheryl,
I will be making a lesson on drafting an A-line skirt pattern for the next lesson. Then go on to sew an A-line skirt using that pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you Nehzat, I actually was here at midnight but somehow didn't see the last part...I was exhausted and just wasn't focusing. Really appreciate these tutorials. They open my eyes! :)
Dear curtish,
You can see how to sew the front and back bodice together by watching the Shirt Sewing Video Lesson. In this lesson I show how to style and add ease to the bodice block patterns, then cut the shirt pieces from muslin and sew a shirt. Then do a fitting and then cut and sew the shirt using the main fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear cherberr,
You can divide the bodice waist darts the same way as the skirt to make sure they are the same and that the darts line up when you join the patterns together.
If you want the dress to be fitted you can sew both darts on either side.
A second option is to sew both darts on either side, but reduce their intake.
A third option is to not sew the smaller darts, this will add some ease to your garment in the waist area. This works especially well for full figures.
I recommend checking on muslin so you can decide which way you prefer most depending on your body shape. Check the fit in the mirror from different angles to help you decide.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I would love that too. Could we also have an unlined version?
Dear Pat,
There are different weights for satin. If your satin is heavy you need to use a heavy fabric for the skirt.
I suggest you do a test fitting using muslin. You may like the way it fits, otherwise you can add some ease to your pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
That is a great idea. I will add your suggestion to my list for the upcoming video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
Thanks for the kind words. I am happy to see that you like the video lessons. Right now all of the pattern making video lessons have an image you can click on with the pattern on it. There is also a list of measurements on the side that you will need to take. You can print this sheet and keep it as a reference and note down your measurements as you go along.
Please let me know if this is what you needed.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
Thank you so much. The fabric was Giorgio Armani, a blend of wool and silk.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
There should be no problem with lowering the side seam until the bodice fits you. If you do a test fitting on muslin, you can always estimate how much you need to lower the side seam length by. The same goes for the armpit area. Then make the same adjustments to your pattern. This way, when you cut and sew your main fabric, there won't be any problems.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
I drafted a new bodice block and decreased the back armpit, front armpit and side seam length. I still have too much fabrick near the bottom of armhole on back and creases when I move my arm. So I guess the area is bustline at W and just about a cm above that then down to the seam under the arm at X. Will lowering the sideseam length even more create problems elsewhere. Does 14cm sound like it would work. I am short between the underarm and waist and could try this. It is hard to measure myself and get an accurate measurement. Thank you for your help. Pat
Dear Barb36,
Thanks for your question, below is a link to an answer I gave about this topic to another member. Please click to read the answer. If you have any questions please let me know.
http://esewingworkshop.com/forum/checking-upper-hip-measurement-pattern#...
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear Lynette,
When drafting the culotte pattern, you should add to the crotch length. This amount varies from 2 to 4 cm depending on the weight or thickness of your fabric. So you would less for a light weight fabric and more for a heavier one.
Make sure to do a test fitting on muslin, to make sure you like the fit.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear nicgir,
Thanks for your suggestion. I will be adding this topic to my list for up coming video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Nehzat,
has the crotch line to be lowered? If so, by how much?
kindly advise?
Lynette
Thanks Nehzat I will try.
Thank you for your time, I will try and re measure. Pat
Dear Pat,
I believe that you have measured the front and back armpit distances more than you body measurements. I also think that you may have measured your side seam length longer as well.
Please watch the video lesson where I give instructions for taking these measurements again, to make sure you are taking them correctly.
If this is the case than your pattern should be adjusted according to the new measurements.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear yvelyn,
Culottes are pants that look like skirts when worn. By changing the center front and center back lines to make them look like a pants crotch, we can make a skirt pattern into a culotte.
The inseam of the culotte should be coming straight down or sloped outwards. You can have pleats between the center front and side seams or close the darts and slash from the dart points down to the hemline. Doing this will flare out the the bottom of the skirt.
Hope this explains it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Charlotte,
The grain line on the pattern should be along the center back for the one piece peter pan collar with an opening on the front.
If the peter pan collar opens on the back for a garment with a back opening, using zipper or button and buttonholes, then the peter pan collar will be split into two pieces. In this case the grain line of the peter pan collar should be parallel to the center back line of the bodice pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear nicgir,
Thank you for your suggestion, I will add this topic to my list for future video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Ashley,
We are planing to make another embroidery video lesson in the future, which will include different embroidery stitches as well as the satin stitch. For now please watch the below videos that explain how to do satin stitch embroidery.
Satin Stitch Video Tutorial
Embroidery: How to Satin Stitch
Here is an explanation on how to do a Splitstitch, which you can use prior to the satin stitches.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
hello, thank you for your beautiful website. I am learning a lot from it. Currently I am engaging in a sewing project that requires me to do a satin stitch. I believe this stitch is an embroidery technique but I did not see it on your site. Is there anyway you can make a video showing this stitch? Thank you!