The best thing to do here is to draw the curves free hand. However if they don't come out the way you like, you can erase the sections that don't look good and draw the lines again.
Repeat until you achieve the right shape. With experience you will become better and better.
Thanks for your question. I suggest you whatch the metric vs imperial measuring system video lesson.
The outcome will be the same either way you measure. However all calculators are in the metric system so it is easier to add, subtract, multiply and divide numbers. That's why it is easier to work with the metric system. Try using measuring tools (ruler, measuring tape) that have both metric and imperial to make it easier to convert the measurements into metric while you are measuring.
When you are drafting the front and back patterns, I suggest that your draft the back pattern separately from the front pattern. This way you don't need to worry about the horizontal lines not being level, since we are drafting the pattern according to the body measurements we have taken.
Because the front and back lengths are different for most people, this is why we measure the front bodice length and the back bodice length separately. Usually the front bodice length is longer than the back bodice length, since when we measure, we have to pass the measuring tape from the shoulder close to the neck, going down, passing the bust point and then to the bottom of the ribbon we have tied around the waistline.
Since we need to pass the measuring tape from the bust point which protrudes from the body, this usually makes that the front bodice length longer than the back. If we don't do this, it means we are ignoring the bust protrusion, which will cause the garment to be short on the front.
On the back we don't have the bust protrusion, that is why the back bodice length is usually shorter than the front bodice length. Unless the person has a hunched back, or excessive protrusion of the shoulder blades or has a flatter chest.
The side bust dart intake absorbs some of the excess length from the front bodice length on the side seam. When we are marking the side bodice length on the front patterns, the side bust dart should be closed. On the front pattern we measure up from Q along the side seam and mark for the armhole.
On the back bodice pattern, we measure up from S along the side seam and mark the armhole as well. This is why the length of the side seams of the front and back bodice patterns will be the same.
Sorry but I’m still having problems with sway back on my muslin. I drew my front and back on same paper since some of the horizontal levels on both are on same level. However as my waist level at the front is lower than my waist level at the back, my armhole to waist on F&B are not matching . Therefore my side seam does not meet.
Please I would be very grateful for a prompt response and any advice to eliminate this issue.
I also believe that having high hips is contributing to my sway back issues. A friend mentioned that accurate dart distribution should resolve it , but I’m not sure.
Many thanks in advance.
Thanks for the compliments. First you need to add seam allowances all around your front and back bodice block patterns. Do the same for the center front of the bodice block pattern as well.
Place the patterns on folded fabric and cut. Mark the center front seam line on both sides of the muslin pieces.
Sew the center back seam, all the darts, side seams, shoulder seams but not the center front seam. This way you will be able to wear the muslin and over lap the front opening, while matching the center front seam lines yourself. Later you can style your pattern according to your preference.
Since you need to shorten the side bust darts and waist darts ending at the bust points, you need to watch Chapter 20 of the bodice block pattern making video lesson. Make sure to do this step before cutting the muslin.
For your second question. The front bodice length is longer for most women. However those with smaller busts, hunched backs or protruding shoulder blades will have a longer back bodice length compared to the front bodice length. Some people's front and back bodice length could be the same.
Since you are drafting your pattern according to your own measurements, at the end the side seams of the front and back bodice pieces will match.
When we want to sew a garment with waist and side bust darts style. We dont want these two darts to end at the bust point. That is why to get a smooth surface on the bust points of the garmnet, we shorten these darts.
However if our garment has a style where we have seam lines, such as a seam line stating from the shoulder passing through the bust point and ending at the waistline or continuing down. Or a seam line starting from one armhole curving down passing through the bust point. Or a horizontal seam line passing from one side seam to the other going through the bust points. Or having some gathering or pleats around the neckline. In all these cases and many others, we need to have the exact location where the waist and side bust darts reach the bust point.
That is why when we draft our bodice block pattern, we need these darts to end at the bust point. Later we alter them as needed. Depending on the style of the garmeny we intend to sew.
Ok thanks. Also, in the basic bodice video at the end it says to alter darts for the garment. You lower the waist dart 2.5 cm. Then again in the adding ease video you say to lower dart 2.5cm? You do this 2x? Or adding ease video is the only one I need to do? Its a little confusing to see the altering dart video. Still not sure the purpose of the video.
What example is there when we dont alter the darts at all?
I suggest that you draft another pattern. Measure your body again making sure to follow the video lesson step by step.
When drafting the pattern double check your calculations as well. The side peace should not become longer. When sewing the princess seam, make sure that the tailor tacks and notches are matching. Watch the chapter where I show how to sew the princess seam. Go over the lesson without skipping any chapters to get a good idea of how to do the seams, without any issues.
The best thing to do, would be to sew a garment out of muslin and check the fitting before you cut your main fabric. This will let you know how the garment will fit. You don't need to compare it to other garments as each will have its own style which effects it's measurements.
Thanks for your kind words. I suggest that you double check your measurements and calculations again. This will help you find where the error occurred.
I am drafting a bodice for a young girl with no bust. When drafting, can I just not draw the bust dart and just draw side seam length? I dont know if there is a reason to transfer dart anywhere if she has no cup size. Also I tried to make the side dart small, but then the armhole length was very very small so I thought better without side dart at all.
Are there children patterns for bodice on this website? I didnt see in the discussion forum.
When sewing the princess seams together the smaller piece was too long and going way beyond. I had to cut it to match. Dont know why it ended up like that. Anyway it seems to be okay that I cut it.
The armholes from all the videos I watched in the past from other people they say back needs to be bigger, and usually the armhole syche is a lot more than mine. Mine is 34cm total. It seems okay, I didnt try it on yet since its not finished. But if you say this is normal than okay. Just want to make sure I followed the video correctly.
Also I meausred a dress that fits me perfectly. The side seam is the same as my pattern, the front armpit distance, bodice length, etc... Everything seems to be exact same measurment, but somehow the armhole is longer. Its 22cm each side. And its not far in or overly curved. How can this be?? I thought the only way was is to shorten side seam or armpit distance, but I checked a few garments and the side seam is the same as mine or longer and the armholes on all my garments are longer. I dont understand.
If the overlapping side of your placket is not a separate piece from your garment material, you can cut a one piece interfacing for the placket and neckline. But the underlapping side needs to have a separate piece of garment material and also separate interfacing from the rest of the neckline.
If the overlap side and the underlap side are separate pieces from the garment material, you obviously need to have seperate pieces of interfacing for the overlap side and underlap side of the placket from the neckline interfacing pieces.
Thank you. Yes, you should follow the same formula. The reason has to do with the shape of the leg and the angle from the hip to the ankle on the side seams and inseams.
This video lesson is intended to teach this particular style of dress, for someone who has never sewn such a style, or for someone who has run into an issue when sewing this style in the past. This is why we went through it step by step to make sure the outcome looks professional, even for a beginner.
It takes a lot of patience to achieve good results in sewing.
The notches and tailor tacks should be matched to their corresponding marks to ensure that the pieces fit well together when you see the garment. The side piece may look longer on the front or back patterns. It looks longer when we add the seam allowances. However the seam lines are exactly the same length.
The style of neckline and regular shoulders, should not affect the princess seams.
The back armhole is always smaller than the front armhole. Because of the bust and the position of the arms which are more towards the front of the body, the front armhole becomes bigger.
Also armholes seem a little small and I double checked all the measurments. But most of all the back armhole is 2cm smaller no matter what I try to do. I dont understand it. Is it supposed to be like that?
I believe you are asking about the front bodice block pattern. The side bust dart and waist dart that end at the bustpoint, we draft them as shown in the video. However if we see them that way, the garment will not look as flattering on the body at the bust point. To soften this area, we shorten the darts on the pattern when we style it.
We draw these darts in this way initially, since for example we may want to style the bodice block pattern with horizontal or vertical or curved cutlines that pass through the bust point, starting from the armholes.
or we may want to gather the garment around the neckline or we may want to have a yoke above the bust point. For all these styles and others it is necessary to know the exact bust point locations on the pattern to be able to alter it.
2. A good nighty with yoke at front and back and sleeves.
3. Fitted boat neck top with sleeves/sleeveless
4. Ankle length skirt with slight shaping
5. A long ladies coat.
6.A saree blouse which is very difficult to master. I think only nehzat can make this with perfection without creases and complications. i can send some pictures of it for you to consider.
I am really happy to see that you are making a good effort and making progress. In order to give you the right advice I need to see the garment on you.
Since you were not able to upload the pictures directly, you can email them to me and with the help of the web support we will post them here in the discussion forum.
I'm glad that you were able to find your answer on our site.
Before sewing machines were invented, the back-stitch was used to sew garment pieces together. It is a very strong stitch that resists wear and tear even better than a straight machine stitch.
The strength of the back-stitch is comparable to a straight stretch stitch sewn by sewing machine.
Dear missrefano,
Dear missrefano,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat,
Dear hope123,
Dear Nehzat,
Please I would be very grateful for a prompt response and any advice to eliminate this issue.
I also believe that having high hips is contributing to my sway back issues. A friend mentioned that accurate dart distribution should resolve it , but I’m not sure.
Many thanks in advance.
Dear Surabeily,
When we want to sew a garment with waist and side bust darts style. We dont want these two darts to end at the bust point. That is why to get a smooth surface on the bust points of the garmnet, we shorten these darts.
However if our garment has a style where we have seam lines, such as a seam line stating from the shoulder passing through the bust point and ending at the waistline or continuing down. Or a seam line starting from one armhole curving down passing through the bust point. Or a horizontal seam line passing from one side seam to the other going through the bust points. Or having some gathering or pleats around the neckline. In all these cases and many others, we need to have the exact location where the waist and side bust darts reach the bust point.
That is why when we draft our bodice block pattern, we need these darts to end at the bust point. Later we alter them as needed. Depending on the style of the garmeny we intend to sew.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Ok thanks. Also, in the basic bodice video at the end it says to alter darts for the garment. You lower the waist dart 2.5 cm. Then again in the adding ease video you say to lower dart 2.5cm? You do this 2x? Or adding ease video is the only one I need to do? Its a little confusing to see the altering dart video. Still not sure the purpose of the video.
What example is there when we dont alter the darts at all?
Dear Surabeily,
Yes, you can just skip the bust darts for kids.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Surabeily,
I suggest that you draft another pattern. Measure your body again making sure to follow the video lesson step by step.
When drafting the pattern double check your calculations as well. The side peace should not become longer. When sewing the princess seam, make sure that the tailor tacks and notches are matching. Watch the chapter where I show how to sew the princess seam. Go over the lesson without skipping any chapters to get a good idea of how to do the seams, without any issues.
The best thing to do, would be to sew a garment out of muslin and check the fitting before you cut your main fabric. This will let you know how the garment will fit. You don't need to compare it to other garments as each will have its own style which effects it's measurements.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Telegant,
Thanks for your kind words. I suggest that you double check your measurements and calculations again. This will help you find where the error occurred.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I am drafting a bodice for a young girl with no bust. When drafting, can I just not draw the bust dart and just draw side seam length? I dont know if there is a reason to transfer dart anywhere if she has no cup size. Also I tried to make the side dart small, but then the armhole length was very very small so I thought better without side dart at all.
Are there children patterns for bodice on this website? I didnt see in the discussion forum.
When sewing the princess seams together the smaller piece was too long and going way beyond. I had to cut it to match. Dont know why it ended up like that. Anyway it seems to be okay that I cut it.
The armholes from all the videos I watched in the past from other people they say back needs to be bigger, and usually the armhole syche is a lot more than mine. Mine is 34cm total. It seems okay, I didnt try it on yet since its not finished. But if you say this is normal than okay. Just want to make sure I followed the video correctly.
Dear Surabeily,
Dear allsew1,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Surabeily,
The notches and tailor tacks should be matched to their corresponding marks to ensure that the pieces fit well together when you see the garment. The side piece may look longer on the front or back patterns. It looks longer when we add the seam allowances. However the seam lines are exactly the same length.
The style of neckline and regular shoulders, should not affect the princess seams.
Dear Surabeily,
Also armholes seem a little small and I double checked all the measurments. But most of all the back armhole is 2cm smaller no matter what I try to do. I dont understand it. Is it supposed to be like that?
Dear Surabeily,
I believe you are asking about the front bodice block pattern. The side bust dart and waist dart that end at the bustpoint, we draft them as shown in the video. However if we see them that way, the garment will not look as flattering on the body at the bust point. To soften this area, we shorten the darts on the pattern when we style it.
We draw these darts in this way initially, since for example we may want to style the bodice block pattern with horizontal or vertical or curved cutlines that pass through the bust point, starting from the armholes.
or we may want to gather the garment around the neckline or we may want to have a yoke above the bust point. For all these styles and others it is necessary to know the exact bust point locations on the pattern to be able to alter it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thanks Nehzat,
Dear breinhold,
Happy sewing
Hi,
Happy sewing,
Dear Jose,
I am really happy to see that you are making a good effort and making progress. In order to give you the right advice I need to see the garment on you.
Since you were not able to upload the pictures directly, you can email them to me and with the help of the web support we will post them here in the discussion forum.
My email is support@esewingworkshop.com
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Joy,